Here in Acadiana, we love a celebration, and with Mardi Gras coming up, our party season is just getting started. Parties, balls, parades — the Mardi Gras celebration in Louisiana doesn’t really stop until early March when the Lenten season calms things down. So, with plenty of party planning still ahead, it’s time for a South Louisiana favorite – the perfect muffuletta.
The perfect muffuletta–Italian cooking meets Cajun cooking. (All photos credit: George Graham)
There’s nothing tastier than the perfect muffuletta sandwich, but they’re tricky, and I have five keys to unlocking the mystery. There is considerable argument over who has the best. There’s even an ongoing argument over how to spell the name – “muffaletta” or “muffuletta.” Conventional wisdom seems to put the French Market of New Orleans as the epicenter of the muffuletta universe, and clearly it is a “u” in the sandwiches seen in the many shops along the riverfront. These are the benchmark muffulettas on which others attempt to raise the bar.
The Mecca of the Muffuletta – Central Grocery in New Orleans. Sadly, it is now closed due to hurricane damage.
I advise that before actually making a muffuletta you should make the pilgrimage to the French Quarter and Central Grocery, the origins of this Sicilian masterpiece. (Note: Central Grocery is now closed due to recent hurricane damage. When it reopens to its former glory, I will revise this post.) When you open the door to the neighborhood Italian grocery, the heady aroma overcomes you – potent dried oregano, pungent oil-soaked olives, spice-cured salami, freshly grated Pecorino Romano. The colorful tins of imported Italian olive oil and row upon row of dried pastas lining the walls from floor to ceiling speak to you in a Sicilian accent. You just know that fresh Italian ingredients are going into this handcrafted sandwich.
But, these muffs are made ahead, not to order. Why? This is one of the keys to unlocking the mystery. Round loaves of Italian bread are wrapped tight and stacked high. Under their own weight, the paper becomes oil-stained and dripping with the olive salad marinade, an indication of a well-soaked muffuletta.
But, can we improve upon the master artisans at Central Grocery?
There are other versions, and it is the hot, melted muffuletta at Napoleon House in the French Quarter that I intend to duplicate. Crispy Italian bread blanketed with an herb-spiked olive salad, piled high with classic deli meats, and a crown of melting cheese (it’s okay to drool) is perfection indeed. If you carefully follow these five key steps, I promise you will unlock the mystery of the perfect muffuletta sandwich.
For The Perfect Muffuletta, quality Italian bread and deli ingredients are crucial.
- 2 (10-inch) loaves round Italian bread with sesame seeds
- 4 cups olive salad (recipe follows)
- ½ pound Genoa salami, thinly sliced
- ½ pound ham, thinly sliced
- ½ pound mortadella with pistachios, thinly sliced
- ½ pound provolone, thinly sliced
- 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1 10-ounce jar green olives, pimiento-stuffed
- 1 cup Italian black olives, pitted
- ½ cup celery, chopped coarse
- ½ cup carrots, chopped coarse
- ½ cup cauliflower, chopped coarse
- ½ cup jarred or fresh red pepper slices
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- 1 tablespoon capers
- ¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
- ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
- 1 teaspoon celery seed
- 1 teaspoon dried rosemary
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
- THE RIGHT BREAD - The bread is all-important to the integrity of this sandwich and should be a large, thick-crust, round loaf of Italian bread, preferably with sesame seeds. Find a good Italian bakery and you should be able to duplicate the muff bread that is common throughout Louisiana.
- QUALITY OLIVE SALAD MIX - Good quality olive salad is crucial. If you live in Louisiana or have access to a good Italian grocer, you can find a jarred product called Muffuletta Olive Salad Mix – my favorite is Boscoli and you can order it online at Cajungrocer.com. Or you can make your own (see recipe) and allow it to marinate for a week or more.
- MAKE AHEAD - Make these sandwiches at least two hours before you want to serve them since the longer they soak, the better. Slice the bread in half horizontally exposing the inside of both halves. Pour olive oil on the bottom bread half to soak generously. Add a thick layer of olive salad over the bottom bread half. Lay out the sliced salami evenly distributing the meat over the bottom bread, and then add a layer of half the provolone. Then, a layer of mortadella. Then, a layer of ham. Then, another layer of provolone. Add more of the olive salad on the top bread half and close it up.
- COMPRESS THE SANDWICH - Compressing the sandwich to distribute the flavors will make a world of difference. Wrap the sandwich tightly in aluminum foil and weigh it down with the heaviest pot you have. To make it heavier add some canned goods inside the pot. Leave it and let it sit for two hours or longer.
- HEAT THE SANDWICH - Turn up the heat. Set the burners of an outdoor gas grill to low. (Alternatively, you can use a 350-degree oven.) This is a major point of differentiation from the traditional muff. Here, you are going to melt the cheese, crisp the bread and add the smoky flavor from the grill. Place the foil-wrapped sandwiches on the hot grates, close the hood and leave for 15 minutes. Unwrap the top of the foil exposing the sandwich and heat for another 5 minutes with the hood closed. Keep warm until your guests are ready and then slice each muffuletta into quarters for serving. A Barq’s root beer (in the bottle, of course) or an ice-cold beer is the beverage of choice for the perfect muffuletta.
- Place all ingredients in a food processor. Quick pulse until chopped but not pureed. Cover and refrigerate overnight and up to a week or more.
For The Perfect Muffuletta, a heavy Cajun black-iron pot makes a handy weight.
YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this Cajun cooking story and Cajun recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick and painless. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new Cajun cooking stories and Cajun recipes are added. Thanks, George.
Keeper
After the bread has baked…how deep in inches should it be
Carole-
Good question. To clarify, when compressing the sandwich it is more about distributing the flavors and ensuring the olive oil soaks into the bread rather than making the sandwich flatter. Depending on the thickness of your bread and quantity of ingredients piled on, your muffuletta should still be a massive (4-inch thick or more) sized sandwich. Serving just a quarter of a muffuletta is usually enough. And the good thing is that wrapped and refrigerated, it is even better the next day. Best, George
Hi George. Do you know what a putsyn or putsin is, and how to make it? I remember my mom speaking of such a thing, but no one in the family can tell me what it is or how to bake/cook it???
Lee – You have stumped me; I have no idea what a “putsyn or putsin” is. But that’s the great thing about our comment section: there may be someone out there who can bring some clarity to this conundrum. Anyone?
Sorry… that should have been “poutine”. It’s often fries with cheese/ gravy on top, but that’s not the original version. Originally it was boiled mashed potato with a small amount of cooked minced pork in the center of a large potato ball. I believe the ball was then boiled. Large means about the size of a softball. It was served savory or a sweet version with brown sugar.
Lee, poutine is my best guess. Hope it’s helpful. It is a dish I discovered in New Brunswick when I was there at an international Cajun reunion.
In the New Brunswick area and around Nova Scotia where putine is part a true part of the culture there, it’s not cheese sauce over fries. It’s originally much more. It’s a version of cooked potato, mashed, stuffed in the center with a little pork, shaped into a ball, wrapped and gently boiled. Really good!! It’s eaten as a savory version but can be sweet for breakfast served with brown sugar. That may not sound inviting and I was doubtful when it was served to me. But! It’s my fav way to eat an authentic putine. I dislike layering cuisines of a culture bastardized for ease or to please palettes of of people with no idea of the authentic item.
I first found Poutine in Canada. It’s french fries, rich brown gravy and white cheese curds. Deep fry the french fries, top with gravy and curds and eat it with a fork. YUMMMMMY!
How many days in advance can I make these up?
Hey Melinda – When I say “make ahead,” I mean hours, not days. At the most, I suggest that you could buy your bread the day before, make the sandwiches, and wrap them tightly to store in the refrigerator overnight. The next day, let them come to room temperature and follow the recipe instructions. All the best.
George, do you recommend a local source for Italian meats?
Hey Jim-
Good question. If I lived in New Orleans, I would have lots of options and for sure, Central Grocery would be my choice. But in Lafayette, while we have many great Cajun butcher shops, few of them focus on the art of curing Italian meats. One exception is my friend Chef Manny Augello at Bread and Circus Provisions. Manny apprenticed in Italy and carries on the charcuterie traditions with his many hand-crafted sandwiches made fresh daily. And while not a true butcher’s shop, if you called him, I’ll bet he could sell you some of his cured meats. And one more thing: The key to the perfect muffuletta is mortadella (with pistachios) and Rouse’s deli department seems to be a reliable source. All the best.
Norjo’s on Frisco Avenue in Old Metairie. Cross the railroad tracks and turn right.
I live in Alexandria, LA, and Brocato’s is one of the only Muffulettas I will eat. It is smaller than Central Grocery, but I say Just As Good.
Hey Donna- Like you, most every Louisianan has their favorite muffuletta. While Central Grocery is the standard by which all are measured, there are dozens of notable versions out there. For me, the muffuletta sandwich is a lot like boudin–no two are the same, but isn’t it fun tasting them all. Best wishes and spicy dishes to you!
For those on the West Coast, I’ve found an awesome olive spread if you don’t want to make it yourself. Giuliano’s is the brand. I was trying to recreate that great experience of the Central Grocery muff from my first (and not last) visit to NO in February. I highly recommend it if you don’t want to make your own!
Hey Burke- Thanks for the info.
I moved to Huntsville, AL after hurricane Katrina. I really missed my muffuletta. I had to order my Boscoli olive salad mix from N.O. Recently, I found it in Walmart here. Now, I’m back to making it again. Except, I can’t find mordela. I went to several exotic stores and no one sells it. I found that Publix makes a real good French bread, so I special order a loaf in the Italian style without the seeds. I did find the mordela and have been making my sandwiches every week. The wife closes her eyes and thinks of the Central Grocery. I thank you for the olive salad recipe. I will definitely give that a try. I will also give it a try on smashing down the sandwich. That never occurred to me. Wrapping it in foil and baking it on the grill sounds great too. I just might have a muffuletta party at the house in the fall when things cool down a bit.
Hey Antoine- Yes my friend, a muffultta oozing with olive oil, an ice-cold Barq’s root beer, a bag of Zapp’s Crawtators, and a Sunday afternoon Saints game is heaven on earth, even in Huntsville, Al. All the best!
I do prefer the heated Muffuletta from the Napoleon house. And, I like the Bosco olive salad. I’m not a Cajun, but I’ve been married to a Cajun (Fontenot from Eunice) for fifty seven years. So, I’m brain washed by now. I’m a “red neck” from North Louisiana.
Thanks for sharing this amazing recipe. My family loved it. I will be sharing this recipe with my friends. Hope they will like it.
I’m from Switzerland. I used a Turkish pide for the bread; it had the same size and shape as the original bread and was topped with sesame seeds. After heating the sandwich up, it also got nicely crunchy. And for the olive salad, I took two packets of marinated olives (with herbs, garlic and capers) and two glasses of mixed pickles, using only the cauliflower, the carrots, and the red pepper; I chopped and mixed them. I couldn’t get sliced provolone, and didn’t want to cut it myself, so I bought slices of Edam, it has a similar aroma. Compressing the sandwich is a really useful trick, it makes it fit into your mouth more easily and prevents the chopped ingredients from falling out.
Thank you for the olive salad recipe; we’re in a food wasteland where no one carries Boscoli.
Lisette – Another work-around is to buy the jarred Italian giardiniera (pickled vegetables) and pulse it in your food processor until you get the chunky texture of muffuletta olive salad mix. All the best.
Love the recipe, this site is interesting and informative.
If you love a hot muffuletta, Giorlando’s is very hard to beat! You won’t regret trying. Only problem not open on weekends! Bummer!
Jennifer – Can you tell us where Giorlando’s is located?
Great recipe!
Thanks Diane.
George – Where in Lafayette can I find round Italian bread with sesame seeds?? Thanks!
Hey Donna- I’ve seen it at Rouses and at Whole Foods, but I suggest calling to make sure. Also, check out Gambino’s Bakery on Johnston St. in Lafayette. Happy Mardi Gras!
Where did you get the bread for the photo? It looks perfect. Most loaves I find are too thick and “cakey.” I used to get the ciabatta onion rolls from Rouses, but they are no longer available.
Phil – I recall that I bought that bread from Rouses. Look around, and you should be able to find a suitable round loaf. All the best.
We tried 3 different Muffulattas when we went to N’orleans. The best one we had was from the French Market food court! We ordered the bread online and bought some olive salad when we were there. I will be attempting to replicate that sammich TONIGHT!
I will always remember the trip with my dad to the French quarter years ago. I ate 6 dozen fresh shucked oysters at Felix oyster house one day ,my personal best. Next day a bowl of gumbo and a oyster po-boy at Mothers diner. The third day Central grocery & watched our Muffaletta sandwiches made and ate half of the sandwich watching NFL playoffs then. Big and very tasty sandwich. We ordered them several more times while there and bought a few to take home. I also loved the 5lb. meal of seasoned boiled crayfish. Pinch off the head, suck out the flavored juice then eat the tail meat. All was totally best Cajun food ever.
Yummm.
Great basic recipe, but you lost me at the heating the Muffuletta. We prefer ours room temperature, never cold, and NEVER heated-that’s “perfection”. Melting the cheese changes the whole taste, and I believe it ruins the sandwich. That being said, to each his/her own, vive la difference!
Hey CJ – You are like many muffuletta purists who subscribe to the Central Grocery traditional recipe, and I am hard-pressed to argue against that. However, I urge you to try my heated version. The next time you make the sandwich, make two–one room temperature and one heated and pressed. Like me, you might become a convert. All the best.
I’ve never eaten an authentic Muffuletta, but will be making a bread recipe from scratch tomorrow and trying one out! I bought some olive salad from Granzella’s, and it is delicious! It comes recommended by Guy Fieri.
Hey Shelly- You’re gonna love this sandwich, and the fact that you’re making bread from scratch and the olive salad recommendation comes from my friends at Triple D, makes it even better. Happy cooking!
I’ve never had one that is pressed, but I love them heated (toasted). In Shreveport, La. there is a little grocery store called Fertitas and their muffulettas are wonderful.
Nancy- Be sure to try pressing the sandwich for saturating the bread with the olive salad and melding all the ingredients. You will love it. All the best.