What is it about cooking en papillote (in a paper bag) that seems so civilized and celebratory? Cooking food in parchment paper wrapped tightly to hold in the steam and juices is a mainstream technique that is embraced by many culinary cultures. The Italians have their al cartoccio, but the French seem to seal the…
Catfish Head Stew
On a crisp, cool Friday morning on my way to Eunice, Louisiana, to stock up on my favorite garlic smoked sausage at my friend Kermit Lejeune’s smokehouse, I drove past a little market on the highway heading west out of Opelousas. I did not have seafood on my mind, but it was the colorful exterior…