Sadly, the Yellow Bowl Restaurant, an iconic Cajun café, closed for business last week. Today, my story pays tribute to this gem–a culinary shrine that will live on in the memories of many folks who live in Acadiana.
Lately, I’ve gotten lots of questions from folks outside of Louisiana who want to know more about the restaurant scene in South Louisiana. Well, I could write volumes on the subject and still not cover it all. The pages of Acadiana Table are a good start, but I have a continually growing backlog of eclectic, out-of-the-way places that I’ve discovered but still have yet to write about. But with one bite of this Fried Softshell Crab topped with Crawfish Étouffée and this little eatery is now at the top of my list.
I like to say these places are “off-the-eatin’-path”, and for good reason. Most of them never show up in the tourist guides or hardly ever make the pages of the food magazines. These are the places located far from the interstate highways and most don’t even have the budget to buy a billboard. But, these little lunchrooms are the backbone of Cajun recipes and Creole culinary expression and ground zero for understanding the culture.
Now don’t get me wrong, I love 5-star restaurants just as much as you do, and here in South Louisiana we have spectacular dining establishments that are on par with most any major metro. Sparkling crystal goblets and pristine china on precisely pressed white linen tablecloths speak volumes about the culinary experience to come and most do not disappoint. But for me, it’s the down-home Cajun recipes I eat in the hole-in-the-wall, mom-and-pop-owned spots that speak loudest about the culture of my Acadiana.
For instance, take the Yellow Bowl Restaurant near Jeanerette, Louisiana. Ask me for directions and I’d be stumped. With a pen and a stack of napkins, I would have you so confused you’d give up hope of ever finding it. But, with a trusty state map and the instincts of a culinary adventurer (along with a GPS), you will find a rare treasure.
What started out as a Greyhound bus stop along a desolate highway in the cane fields of St. Mary Parish in South Louisiana has grown into a shrine of classic Cajun food. Now under the expert hands of TK and Colleen Hulin and their chef Kenneth “Tippy” Davis, this family-style restaurant is worth searching for. Not fancy, just down-home good Cajun cooking.
My wife Roxanne and I had lunch there recently, and I discovered Chef Tippy’s incredible Cajun recipe for Crawfish Margarite–an expertly fried softshell crab topped with crawfish étouffée. Crispy crab gives way to creamy smothered crawfish in a spicy hurricane of flavor. This Cajun recipe for Fried Softshell Crab topped with Crawfish Étouffée is a rare combination that is worth driving (or flying) for. It is not on the menu year round but when softshell crabs are in season (usually in the spring and summer), beat a path to the Yellow Bowl.
While the chef didn’t share the details of his Cajun recipe, I recently took a shot at recreating his Fried Softshell Crab topped with Crawfish Étouffée in my kitchen with delicious results. I urge you to make this dish when you see softshells for sale and take a culinary side trip off-the-eatin’-path.
This tribute story is a reminder to support our many food-related businesses throughout Acadiana. I urge you to spend your food dollars locally and generously to keep our food culture alive for generations to come. It’s important. Thanks, George.
- 1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter
- 1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
- 1 green bell pepper, finely diced
- ½ cup finely diced celery
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 2 pounds Louisiana crawfish tail meat
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 2 cups crawfish stock or seafood stock
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Dash of hot sauce
- 4 large softshell Louisiana blue crabs, cleaned
- 1 gallon canola oil
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoons Acadiana Table Cajun Seasoning Blend, see recipe here
- 1 cup half and half
- 1 cup buttermilk
- 1 tablespoon hot sauce
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 4 slices toasted white bread
- 2 cups cooked Louisiana long-grain white rice, such as Supreme
- 4 lemon wedges
- In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter and add the onions, bell pepper, and celery. Sauté for 5 minutes just until tender, add the garlic and season the mixture with cayenne. Add the crawfish tail meat stirring to combine. Reduce the heat to simmer and cook for another 5 minutes.
- Sprinkle the flour over the mixture and stir to incorporate and begin cooking the flour. Add some of the stock and continuing stirring until it begins to thicken. Add more stock just until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.
- Season to taste with salt, pepper, and hot sauce. Turn off the heat and keep warm until serving.
- Rinse the crabs and pat dry with paper towels to remove any moisture. Place them on a platter lined with paper towels.
- In a deep pot over medium-high heat, add the oil. Bring to a temperature of 375ªF.
- In a shallow container, add the flour and seasoning and blend together.
- In a shallow container, add the half and half along with the buttermilk and hot sauce. Stir to blend.
- Remove the crabs and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Place the crabs in the liquid and then dredge in the seasoned flour. Roll them to coat on both sides.
- Shake off any excess flour from each crab and place in the hot grease being careful not to crowd the pot. Fry the crabs until golden brown on both sides, about 8 minutes. Remove to a paper towel-lined platter and keep warm. Repeat until all the crabs are cooked.
- For serving, cut the toast in half and place on a platter. Cut each softshell crab in half and place on each toast half. Add a mound of cooked rice in the space between the crab and ladle over a generous amount of crawfish étouffée. Garnish with a lemon wedge.
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Thanks, George.
Janice says
love to travel in Louisiana and especially love the restaurants off the beaten path ! Thx for sharing !
Jake Perez says
Louisiana, where the Crawfish are Hot, the Beer is Ice Cold, Dancing to Cajun Music, is just another day in Paradise!
Sherry Buckner says
You have just verbalized my favorite thing about Louisiana dining! You never know where you will find a PERFECT example of something wonderful…may be better than any 5 star eatery…and it will be someone’s converted living room turned into a weekend restaurant to help make ends meet! At least, that how my childhood in Cenla was spent! This recipe reminds me of the ST. Joseph feast the mother of a friend used to make each year. While other’s were reveling in French Quarter and drinking green beer ( it is also ST, Patty’s day) we would be eating SSC among a vast array of chatchkas and old lace at her antique table. Can not wait to try this recipe!
Sherry Buckner
ps…love your writing too!
George Graham says
Hey Sherry –
Thanks for sharing your unique perspective on the adventure of eating in Louisiana. And so glad you enjoy the writing. It is a labor of love. Best, George
Lorraine Bornio says
Loved this story. Love Louisiana and its food and people.
jim says
George – thanks for posting this. And a bigger thanks for your blog. It is my favorite food blog, by far, and I am always happy to get the email telling me you have posted again. Being in Houston, Acadiana is close enough for my wife & I to explore. Your writing has been a great travel guide for those road trips and cooking guide for home.
Much obliged & regards – Jim
Patricia Wallace says
the étouffée over soft crab looks scrumptious .
Patricia Wallace says
I would like to have the physical address to set the gps. Everything looks so good
George Graham says
Patricia- The location is:
19466 Louisiana 182 (btw Baldwin and Jeanerette)
Jeanerette, Louisiana 70544
(337) 276-5512
The info is on the Faces and Places page at Acadiana Table where you can also find listings for so many other great off-the-eatin’-path treasures.
Best,
George
Arlene c. Goulas says
Thanks
anita young says
Thank you for the off the beaten path restaraunts.. gives us new places to go on a weekend excursions and get great food too!
Tambra Verret says
Enjoyed reading your article. I have dined at The Yellow Bowl many times and it’s one of my favorite places to eat. One small correction…it’s actually located in St. Mary Parish (we have so few enjoys places to dine on the east end of the parish, we like to hang on to what we have…lol). Otherwise your article was dead on correct, it is a wonderful place to eat! My husband has tried the Crawfish Marguerite and he says it is delicious.
George Graham says
Tambra-
Thanks for the kind comments and your correction (St. Mary Parish) is duly noted and now reflected on the post. Thanks, George
Fannie Lambert says
from St. Mary parish, now in TN, always homesick, your blog is a touch of home, thank you!
George Graham says
Thanks, Fannie.
Cathy says
my husband and I go eat there if not every two weeks, at least every month. A few great things to try…. Crab platter is amazing and the seafood gumbo is a must. I could go on and on all night. Just know if you stop here the food here is TRUE CAJUN COOKING!
Cherie says
OMG, you are so right about the Yellow Bowl. This place is a gem! I’m ashamed to say that we live 40 minutes away and haven’t been since my first visit some 20 years ago. But I talk about it all the time. I often tell my husband about my experience there. Crabmeat augratin. I still remember the rich perfect taste. I am planning a special trip because of this blog. That soft shell crab looks amazing! Thanks for sharing. 🙂
Scott Hawkes says
As a child, teen, and into adulthood I lived in Franklin La about 20 minutes from the Yellow Bowl and have eaten there many many times. Fantastic place for good home cooked authentic cajun food. May I also recommend also in that area, in between Franklin and New Iberia on Hwy 90 is the Original Landry restaurant. Another great find. And continuing towards Lafayette R&M’s Boiling point. Featured in national magazines because of their terrific boiled seafood, you cannot go wrong there. Thanks for spotlighting one of my favorite childhood restaurants. Brought back many great memories.
Regina Zirlott says
I was introduced to Louisiana as a young child. The unique cuisine draws me to New Orleans as often as possible. But when I can’t get there recipes like this just excites me. I live on the Gulf Coast & can get the seafood. Thanks for posting. I love it!! My family will love it even more.
Denise says
I love off the map places that serve wonderful food. I love the adventure of finding them. thank you for sharing!
Shannon Phillips says
Loved this!
Vida says
Where is the restaurant ?
Ginger Delahoussaye says
Originally from Louisiana. Get there about 3 or 4 times a year. Love cajun food.
Dianne D. Bernard says
I love this article. Please send me more. Thanks
Stella Theriot says
Thank you for reminding me of this treasure, George, and for aharing your recipe! It’s been too long since my last excursion down the road from Jeanerette.
Sam Austin says
I was raised around Baton Rouge, now live in Kentucky. Sure miss Cajun cooking!
Marshail Wildridge says
cant wait to get there
Richard Hord says
You want to eat good just go to Felix Oyster Bar and get a Shrimp and Oyster Poboy with a Beer and that as good as it gets!!!
George Graham says
Richard-
Yes…I love Felix’s but I just can’t get past the stand-up oyster bar. Two dozen hand-shucked oysters later and I’m good to go. Can’t wait to try their po-boy. Best, George
nola2chi says
My goodness! Ate there a couple of times while staying at the old McIlhenny residence on Avery Island. It was sublime. I’ve talked about how good it was ever since.
Reading your lovely description and the comments my tiny little head accidently did some math, it’s been 40 years! Truly the stuff memories are made of.
Thanks for the reminder.
PS: Showed my husband the pics and now he’s mad. Gotta get back.
Don Emery says
Ate there last week. Awesome. Even better than I hoped given your wonderful review. Worth every mile to get there. Thanks!
George Graham says
Hey Don-
You’re welcome and thanks for supporting an important culinary icon of Cajun culture. Best, George
Claire Andrus says
Thank you, George, for this wonderful article about one of our area treasures. Sitting with me here right now is my aunt Jane Roane deGravelles who’s grandmother, Mrs. Agla Scranton Millet was the original owner and builder of the Yellow Bowl. Aunt Jane remembers very well spending time at the restaurant as a young girl, watching those Greyhound Busses roll in. She remembers the mandarin and satsuma orchard behind the restaurant. Jane’s job was to sell the little oranges for a nickel a pieces. At present, her nephew farms sugar cane just down the road from the Yellow Bowl and eats there several times a week. The tradition of excellence continues.
George Graham says
Claire-
Wow, what a great post and thanks for sharing this bit of history with us. The Yellow Bowl is indeed a treasure and is in good hands right now. All the best, George
Cathy says
The Half and Half is also to die for at the Yellow Bowl. I travel from AZ just for that!
George Graham says
Cathy-
I totally agree with you. They have a terrific Half and Half platter (half étouffée and half fried crawfish tails). And certainly worth a drive from just about anywhere. Best, George
Danny Deshotels says
Great blog George. Love the recipes!
BARBARA SCHOENBERGER says
IVE NEVER EATEN THERE NOR HAVE I HAD THIS RECIPE!! I INTEND TO DO BOTH !! THANKS FOR THE WONDERFUL TIP AND RECIPE!!
Guy Andrus says
Originally from Louisiana. Love the Boudin at Comeaux’s (Lafayette). Gotta try Yellow Bowl.
Jane Watson says
So Leary about adding crafwfish or fresh shrimp to a dish and then cook it for 15 minutes…they loose all of their water content and shrivel up . I add them last…
George Graham says
Hey Jane – When it comes to shrimp, I generally agree with you, but with crawfish tails there is an added flavor objective at hand. Tail meat is covered with fat and juices that need a bit of time to gently linger in the pot so that a righteous étouffée comes together perfectly balanced.