It’s Catfish Head Stew: Catfish heads swimming in a rich Creole red gravy. (All photos credit: George Graham)
On a crisp, cool Friday morning on my way to Eunice, Louisiana, to stock up on my favorite garlic smoked sausage at my friend Kermit Lejeune’s smokehouse, I drove past a little market on the highway heading west out of Opelousas. I did not have seafood on my mind, but it was the colorful exterior signage on the building that caught my eye. I made a U-turn to shoot a quick photo.
Located in Opelousas, this little market has it all.
I had taken a few shots when the door burst open, and a most attractive lady in pink rubber boots emerged with a big smile and inquisitive look. I was about to meet Sharon Sebastien, the owner of Sebastien’s West End Seafood (see Faces and Places page for directions).
When I told her who I was, I was invited to come inside and learn more about her world of seafood. As I gazed in awe at the chalkboard menu on the wall, I was in heaven. Gou, garfish, snapping turtle (live and dressed), collar bone, frog legs, alligator, and crawfish were just a few of the marquee items on the product listing. And of course, catfish. Lots of catfish.
Whether it swims or crawls, you can find it at West End.
Big blues, flatheads, and channel cats are fished wild in the Atchafalaya Basin and make their way to Sebastien’s where they are sliced and diced in an array of versatile ways. Home cooks buy these cuts for a variety of favorite recipes: Chunks are fried up for nuggets, fillets are blackened, and whole skinned catfish are a delicacy on every dinner table. But the head of a catfish is reserved only for those in the know. Those who know about this down-home recipe for Catfish Head Stew.
Cleaned catfish on ice; essential for my Catfish Head Stew.
Where most discard the head of a large 5-pound catfish, in Creole culture they wind up in a black iron pot of Catfish Head Stew. Once the fish is skinned and gutted, the head is removed and cleaned. The fishmonger at Sebastien’s, fires up the band saw and removes the front half of the head from the eye sockets to the mouth and whiskers. Remaining on the fleshy skeletal structure are white, flaky morsels of cheek meat clinging to one large head bone–all destined for a seasoned braise in a spicy, red, cayenne-infused tomato gravy. This Catfish Head Stew is good eatin’ and served over a mound of white rice along with a loaf of crusty French bread, you’re headed to catfish heaven.
Cleaned and sliced, catfish heads combine with ordinary ingredients in an extraordinary Creole dish called Catfish Head Stew.
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 2 cups diced yellow onion
- 2 cups diced celery
- 1 cup chopped green bell pepper
- ½ cup chopped red bell pepper
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- ½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
- 1 cup sliced andouille sausage
- 1 tablespoon fish stock concentrate or 2 cups seafood stock
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes
- 1 (10-ounce) can mild diced tomatoes and green chilies, drained, such as Ro-Tel
- 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
- 2 tablespoons dark roux, such as Rox's Roux
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt
- 1 tablespoon white pepper
- 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 2 lemon slices
- 2 pounds catfish heads
- 4 cups cooked long-grain white rice, such as Supreme
- ½ cup green onion tops
- In a cast-iron pot with lid over medium-high heat, add the oil. Add the onion, celery, and bell peppers, and sauté until the onions turn translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, parsley, and sausage, and cook for 3 minutes. Dissolve the fish stock concentrate in 2 cups of cold water and add to the pot. Add the wine, along with the tomatoes, Ro-Tel, and tomato paste. Stir to combine and bring to a boil.
- Lower the heat to a simmer and add the roux and bay leaves. Season with salt, white pepper, cayenne, red pepper flakes, and sugar. Toss in the lemon slices. Cover and let cook for 30 minutes on the stovetop.
- Uncover and stir, and using the edge of the spoon, break up any large pieces of whole tomato. Add the catfish heads and cover them in the sauce. Let cook on simmer for another 30 minutes.
- Lift the lid and inspect to make sure the catfish is tender and easily pulls away from the bone. If not, let it cook another 10 to 15 minutes until done. Sample the sauce and adjust the seasoning to your taste.
- Serve in bowls over cooked white rice and garnish with green onion tops. Serve with crusty French bread and hot sauce on the side.
The only thing better than a big bowl of catfish head stew is the second bowl.
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I read the recipe, it was cool, until I read it again. there was no mention of making a roux beforehand.
Hey James-
Sometimes I assume folks have access to a store-bought roux, but as you point out, that is not always the case. With your keen eye for detail, I have adjusted the recipe to provide a link to the Rox’s Roux recipe on the site. Thanks for the valuable comment.
It’s the 14th item listed in the ingredients, only uses 2Tablespoons
I have made this recipe with catfish from my father in law several times. In fact, the paper I printed the recipe on is filthy. I have not had any catfish heads, but I just made the base and added the fish at the end. It is excellent every time. I bet it is incredible with the extra flavor from the fish bones. Unfortunately, my father in law thinks I’m a crazy person for wanting to save the heads. Thanks for sharing.
Wendi – You are so correct in that the bones keep the flesh moist and flavorful, and prevents it from falling apart, as catfish is prone to do. Give it a try next time. Best to you.
Can’t wait to try this. It sounds exactly like ma’dears catfish stew.
Great recipe. I love it. I put more pepper because I love HOT!
My grandmother did not use all that, she kept it simple… yellow onions, fresh green onions, season to taste, a flour or starch paste to thicken the soup, you can additional stuff to it.
Jessie – Thanks for pointing out that many of these time-tested recipes start out quite simple. Years ago in the rural areas of Acadiana, cooks used what was available and learned to make outstanding dishes using simple ingredients. These days, we (I am guilty, for sure) complicate what could be a simple path to a delicious dish. All the best.
I made this as a gumbo added shrimp, spinach, and okra. Oh sooo, delicious!
I used grouper head instead of catfish. I used bacon for the roux and added the cooked bacon to the pot.
Hey Brenda – I love your sense of culinary adventure, and as I always say, everything is better with bacon. All the best.
My stepfather made this stew, but he used red snapper. I was a little girl, not old enough to learn how to cook, but all my life I have never forgotten the taste of that stew, and I am 68. Thank you.
I love mildly hot foods and intend to make a Catfish Head Stew but hot, but edible.
Thank you G.G. for this recipe.
Henry
Hey Henry- This is one dish that is supposed to be hot and is a perfect example of a rural Creole one-pot recipe that delivers a boatload of flavor. You’re gonna love it. All the best.
I finally learned to make a good roux, an excellent gravy, and my husband went keto! I guess I’m gonna have to figure out how to brown almond or coconut flour.
I’m in Tennessee now and missing fresh seafood. Can’t wait to put a pond in. Already have rabbit, at least I can add some turtle. I keep trying to talk my jogging neighbor into carrying a backpack to stuff them in, as he says he sees snappers all the time. Having my own catfish would be boss. This recipe sounds amazing. I despise waste so it’s even more perfect. Thank you and best to you and yours in these strange times!
Hey A. Eliza-
If you figure out the keto roux, please let me know. All the best.
Hi, okra will thicken dishes like nobody’s business. Is okra keto?
Hey Mr. E – According to a quick online search: “Okra is practically the queen of low-carb vegetables because of its nutritional value. A 100 g serving contains just 3.8 net carbs.” All the best.
Hey I make Almond roux often. Use the almond flour not meal. Natural gro has a good price. It is so easy . Just put in a thick or black pot. Need no fat because almonds have their own. Just keep stirring till real brown the color of good roux. And keep tasting, it will began to taste like regular roux. I blend mine before using with a little water so it will be smooth. Just put it in the liquid when boiling. I sometimes add a little tapioca flour mixed with water as you would use cornstarch for thickness. Or okra. Tapioca flour is gluten free. Paleo approved. Only use a little and add slowly.
Brings back memories when my nana made this dish.
Thank you for keeping the recipes and history alive.
Hey Doug – I am honored to write about our Cajun and Creole food culture. And I appreciate readers like you. Thanks.
Might try. Family likes Cajun food.
I enjoyed reading all the comments, Thanks
I have a large catfish head now, and about to make a stew. From Marthaville, La, now living in Houston, TX. We caught big catfish from the creeks, and we had catfish head stew all the time.
I might sound a little partial prejudice in good way. I’m co-owner of WESTEND. Sharon van ‘ VOUGUE’ for me.Yella cat heads in coubillion is my favorite w/ fried gar on the side for texture. We really appreciate ACADIANA TABLE for the nod and all our customers. We try to go above and beyond for all our customers. It’s the only way. Great product, great results. Alon Mange’. Thanks again from WESTEND!
Hello. I have a freshly caught catfish. Do I need to trim off the top of the head like they did at your friend’s smokehouse, or can I just throw the whole thing into the stew? Will that alter the flavor? I’ve made a Thai salmon head soup before and just threw it all in, eyeballs and all, and it was delicious.
Hey Johanna- I love your adventurous culinary spirit. Go for it, and let us all know how it turns out. All the best.