Growing up in South Louisiana, po’boys were just about as common as hamburgers are today. In small towns back then, we didn’t have a burger chain on every corner. It was mostly mom-and-pop sandwich shops and greasy spoon cafés that put out their home-cooked specialties, especially a down-home Louisiana roast beef po’boy.
My roast beef po’boy is all about the beefy flavor, rich gravy and crispy French loaf. (All photos credit: George Graham)
I grew up in Washington Parish an hour north of New Orleans on the Mississippi state line. Located far from any saltwater, ingredients for po’boys were less about shrimp and oysters and more about meat. Ham and cheese, smoked sausage, meatball, and most especially, roast beef.
For me, a sloppy, gravy-drenched roast beef po’boy is the definitive statement of what this famous South Louisiana sandwich is all about. I grew up on one of the best around at a little joint called Capo’s in my hometown of Bogalusa. This Italian family knew the art of the po’boy and their roast beef po’boy had just the right balance of beefy flavor to crispy toasted French bread. In all these years, I’ve not had one as good. Until recently.
I’ve sampled roast beef po’boys in my Acadiana and found no clear winner, so I recently ventured over to New Orleans on my quest to reclaim my roast beef po’boy prize. I did my research beforehand and discovered the odyssey of local New Orleans restaurant reviewer Brett Anderson’s similar quest. A food writer I admire, I decided to follow Brett’s trail to the ultimate roast beef po’boy, but I clearly admit, I was determined to prove him wrong.
I began to see that Brett was right on several of the most heralded sandwich shops. The world famous tourist haunt Mother’s was my first stop and lowered the bar with their debris-infused version that was sorely lacking. Johnny’s in the French Quarter fell short. Even the acclaimed Parasol in the Irish Channel just didn’t live up to my memories. Nor did Parkway Tavern’s critically acclaimed sloppy mess of a roast beef po’boy.
R & O’s is known for its menu of Italian favorites, but it is their Creole roast beef po’boy that I crave.
And then I headed over to Brett’s choice — R & O’s. On the lakefront in Bucktown, R & O’s has earned its reputation as an Italian lunchroom that puts out a menu of wide-ranging New Orleans food including pizza, fried seafood, salads and red-gravy specialties of all kinds. And po’boys.
Let me say it clearly; R & O’s roast beef is po’boy perfection. As I simultaneously analyzed and devoured this masterpiece, it was evident that the culinary execution of this roast beef po’boy was genius on all three key levels – beef, gravy, and bread.
In degrees of importance, let me dissect this roast beef po’boy for you. First, the beef was not your typical cooked down until falling apart beef roast so typically found on most sloppy versions. The meat had the texture of a good flank steak or skirt steak slow-roasted and chopped into pieces, not shredded or sliced. And then the gravy was full of beefy flavor with the required thickness that blanketed the meat and soaked the bread at just the right balance.
Leidenheimer’s colorful delivery truck is an unmistakable sign of quality.
And the bread–oh, my God–the bread! Leidenheimer bakery has over 100 years of history baking po’boy bread for good reason. One bite into this lightly toasted sesame seed-laden bread and you will clearly understand why. This bread holds up and provides the framework to construct this wonderfully wet sandwich without disintegrating into a soggy mess.
This is the one-and-only original R & O’s roast beef po’boy. Perfection!
Let me say it again; R & O’s roast beef is po’boy perfection. Crispy, crunchy French bread dipped in rich brown gravy hugging a generous mound of roast beef dressed with shredded lettuce and ripe tomatoes and just a slather of Blue Plate is po’boy nirvana and a sensory overload for a Louisiana boy with childhood memories.
No matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t get the detailed roast beef po’boy recipe from the good folks at R & O’s. So, I was on my own. As I experimented in recreating this sandwich with my Cajun recipe, I can assure you my version will never be as good as the real thing. Sitting in that Bucktown lunch house looking out the window at the lakeshore levee while devouring that roast beef po’boy masterpiece is hard to duplicate, but I will try. And after you taste my Cajun recipe version, then please make a pilgrimage to R & O’s for the real deal and let me know if I even come close.
Brett, I will never doubt you again.
- 4 pounds flank steak, tenderized
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 whole yellow onion, peeled and quartered
- 2 stalks celery, chopped
- 2 carrots, peeled and chopped
- 4 cloves garlic, chopped
- ½ cup chopped fresh parsley
- 1 bay leaf
- 6 cups water, plus more if needed
- 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
- 1 tablespoon Zatarain’s liquid crab boil or 1 tablespoon Acadiana Table Cajun Seasoning Blend, see recipe here
- 2 tablespoons cornstarch
- 2 tablespoons cold water
- 2 tablespoons flavoring and browning sauce, such as Savoie's or Kitchen Bouquet
- 4 individual 10-inch po'boy loaves
- 1 stick unsalted butter, melted
- Sesame seeds
- 1 cup quality mayonnaise, such as Blue Plate
- 8 slices ripe tomato
- 2 cups shredded iceberg lettuce
- Sliced dill pickles
- Hot sauce
- Preheat the oven to 350ºF.
- Season the beef with salt and black pepper. In a large black iron pot with tight fitting lid on medium high heat, pour the oil and bring to a sizzle. Add the beef and brown the meat on both sides until dark brown. Lower the heat and add the onion, celery, carrot, garlic, parsley and bay leaf. Add enough water to cover the beef. Cover the pot and let simmer for 1 hour checking every 20 minutes to add more water if needed.
- Remove the beef to a cutting board. With a large knife, chop the beef into thumbnail size pieces. Cover and keep warm.
- In the pot with beef cooking liquid, remove the vegetables. Turn up the heat to a gentle boil and add the Worcestershire and crab boil. Make a slurry with the cornstarch and an equal amount of cold water. Add the slurry to the pot and stir. Once it comes back to a boil, it will thicken. The thickness of the gravy should pour easily, yet coat the back of a spoon. Add more of the cornstarch slurry to thicken or more water to thin it to the proper consistency. If needed, add a spoonful or two of browning sauce to darken the gravy to a beautiful medium dark brown. Taste the gravy and add salt and black pepper if needed. Add the chopped beef to the gravy and keep warm.
- Slice the po'boy bread in half lengthwise. Brush the tops with melted butter and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Place the tops on the bottom halves and onto a baking tray to bake in the oven. Heat the bread just long enough to smell the sesame seed aroma and crisp the top of the loaf. It should form a hard outer crust that when you tap it, it makes that distinguishable sound of hardness, but the soft inner bread remains moist and fluffy. Remove the bread from the oven.
- Open the halves exposing the inside of the top and bottom. Slather the bottom half with mayonnaise and using a slotted spoon, add a generous portion of beef and gravy on top. Layer two large slices of tomato on top of the beef and mound with shredded lettuce. Hold the top half of the bread in your hand and quickly dip it into the beef gravy to soak the inside and place on top to close the sandwich. Garnish with sliced dill pickles and serve with hot sauce on the side.
The sign of a great roast beef po’boy.
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Thanks, George.
George the next time you are in New Orleans I wish you would venture over to Rocky and Carlos in Chalmette where you will find an awesome roast beef Po boy -give them a try before you rule out the best and let me know how you like it
Hey Johnett-
Will do. It’s been too long (pre-Katrina) since I’ve been to Chalmette. Thanks for the suggestion. Anyone else out there have a favorite to try? George
The roast beef po-boy at Chateau Orleans Po-Boy’s on Barataria in Marrero is one of the best I’ve eaten, and order it with a side of onion rings. The bread is from Hi-Do Bakery
Best roast beef poboy hands down is Bear’s poboys in Covington, La or if your on the south shore in Metairie, La. If you live on either end of the causeway there’s no reason for the travel either way.
I’m going to post this to my Facebook page because recently I’ve been on the same quest, but in Atlanta. There are lots of places here that use the words “Cajun” or “Creole” or “New Orleans” but I haven’t found a single place that does a Debris sandwich like the ones I remember when I was growing up in Lafayette and could walk into any convenience store or small country grocery and get a great po-boy.
I’ve tried several places so far but what I’ve found is pretty disappointing. Packaged pre-cooked and very thinly sliced meat? of some sort. No roast beef flavor, just tastes like canned product.
I’m still on that quest for the best Debris sandwich I can find in Atlanta. I’ll keep you posted.
Hey Mike –
Two options: Jump on a non-stop flight to Louisiana or follow my recipe. They will both bring you to the perfect Roast Beef Po-Boy. Best, George
I am opening a food truck in Texarkana, Arkansas. Don’t make the face lol. My family is originally from Avoyelles Parish, and I didn’t move here until I was in my 30s. If you are ever up this way in Yankeeland (I am about 40 minutes north of Shreveport) come check out the Roux Ga Roux Shack. I don’t think you will be disappointed. It’s a Leidenheimer po’boy at that.
Didn’t realize you were from Bogalusa! I have family there!
I really want to try your recipe because here in Baton Rouge I have yet to find a really good roast beef po-boy. I have a question about the recipe. You say to preheat the oven, then simmer the beef. Should I simmer the beef on the stove or in the oven??
Hey Kay – Good question and I am glad to clarify. Cook the beef on the stovetop and use the oven in step #5 when you heat the po-boy bread. Heating the bread to a perfect crackly crunch is important to the structure of the sandwich and prevents it from becoming a soggy mess (like many roast beef po-boys). Best, George
I’m in the same boat. I’m a Galliano transplant and didn’t know there was such a thing as sliced roast beef before moving in ’08. I ask hopefully every time about the Roast Beef and then I hear the dreaded sliced not shredded. Boooo
You have my mouth watering – can’t wait to try it next time in N.O. – My son’s in N.O. – he’s a trained chef as well – i’ll share this with him.
Hey George… I could not agree with you more on R and O! I have experienced Capos as you wiTH Annie’s red gravy and even the one near the old train depot… I am a believer and frequent R and Os ! Thanks for your amazing description… I am salivating as I respond! all my best ! Wally
Hey Wally – I should have known you were a po-boy aficionado. Thanks for the kind comments and I’d almost forgotten Mike’s sandwich shop at the old train depot. Mr. Brown made exceptional po-boys and only left the shop to go to the bus depot to pick up his daily shipment of French loaves (must have been Leidenheimer) from New Orleans. Best, George
Hi George and Wally! I believe I recognize you! I grew up in Bogalusa (Rosenblums are great friends) and have lived in Texas since 1979. Oh, but I really miss a good poboy, right? Texans are proud of their Texmex, but are clueless when it comes to making a great poboy. If you don’t get the bread right, forget about it!! That’s why I ran across your website today. I am determined to bake the bread just right so that it can be filled with anything and taste amazing! Know that Leidenheimer recipe is secret. Last time we made it to North Shore and Washington Parish, Wally directed us to R&O’s, YUMMY! So I will be picking up your cookbook, etc and am anxious to try some recipes from ‘the expert’!
Kind regards, Elizabeth Smith aka “Boo Richardson”
Hey Elizabeth – Agreed that Texans know a thing or two about TexMex (barbecue and chicken fried steak, too), but don’t quite get it right when it comes to an authentic Louisiana po’boy. Thankfully, Texas and Louisiana are next door neighbors and you can always jump in the car for a quick fix. Great hearing from you and hope you will comment often. All the best.
George, Thanks for bringing back some good memories of great po-boys at Capo’s.
Jenne – Hey, my good friend. Great to hear from you and thanks for the heartfelt comment. George
George… This article brought back many memories of our numerous trips from Franklinton (where I grew up during the 50’s and 60’s) to get our po-boy “fix” at Capo’s…they were the best! And then we would get a pastry (chocolate eclair for me) from the Family Bakery! Love reading all your articles…will give this recipe a try…sounds great.
Barbara – Family Bakery was the best…I remember it well. And I never missed the Washington Parish Free Fair in Franklinton every year. Thanks for the memories. George
My grandfather would take me to Capo’s for a RB po’boy and Polo would let me sit on the bar (I was a child then) to eat it because it was so “messy” but the best po’boy ever. Sure miss those days. A few years back someone told me they had the Capo’s recipe but I never got it from them.
Cathy – If you get that recipe, please share it with me. That po-boy is filled with delicious memories. Best, George
I will be glad to share. I just have to remember who it was that told me they had it. 🙂
I live in Florida now and when I visit N.O., I usually go to R & O’s for oyster and shrimp poboys. Delicious!!! Guess I will have to try roast beef next time. Thanks for the tip.
This is my first time to comment on your blog George. You and Brett got it right! R&O’s is definitely the best. Glad you finally found them. Other items on the menu are outstanding as well. I am sure you are planning a return trip. It is hard to not order the po-boy, but there is a lot of great food at that wonderful Italian restaurant!!!
Hey Paula – You are correct. While I never tried the Roast Beef Po-boy until now, I have eaten there numerous times in prior years. Absolutely love their Italian Salad. Best, George
I have eaten many a po-boy from Capo’s but the ones I ate and the reason they were so good to me was the bread did not have a crust. More like sliced french bread. Thanks for the heads up on where we should go in New Orleans. Glynn’s in Bogalusa also has good po-boys.
Why do you use cornstarch instead of flour??
Also in case it hasn’t been mentioned – try Parkway Bakery near City Park in New Orleans – great depris po-boys and also depris on french fires!!!
Hey Adele-
Good question. I use cornstarch as a thickener. When mixed with an equal amount of cold water, cornstarch becomes a “slurry” and when added to a gravy will give it the body and thickness needed to coat the back of a spoon. A good thing to know is that you will never know how thick it will be until the gravy comes back to a boil. Sometimes I will mix my cornstarch with wine for an added flavor boost.
And yes, Parkway Bakery is terrific. Best, George
Their shrimp po’boy is actually even better
Hey Peter-
Stands to reason that the kitchen that makes the world’s greatest beef po-boy might very well excel at everything on the menu. Can’t wait to try it. Best, George
On one of my last trips to the motherland I was sure to stop by R & O to find the best po boy. Like you I was not disappointed. Last month I took my wife and kids there to share in the tasty goodness and they too agreed with all who have named it the best roast beef po boy.
Unfortunately now here we sit back in California longing for an R & O sandwich which is what brought me to your site. This is on the menu for this evening and I’m sure many more of your recipes will soon follow across our table until our move to New Orleans.
Thanks for the recipe because I’ve searched for a decent po boy in California and, like most other things, they don’t make their way this far west.
George,
Love this story about po boys!
I have been trying bake a loaf of po boy bread but keep ending up with a denser french bread.
Do you have a recipe to share with us??
Sherry – The art of baking po-boy bread is best left to the experts and when it comes to bread baking, I am no expert. I recommend you search the bakeries in your area and find a dependable source. If not in Louisiana, I recommend you check out the Vietnamese stores. French traditions of bread baking have become a mainstay of their food culture and their bánh mì sandwich has unique similarities to a Louisiana po-boy. All the best, George
Hi George,
Grew up in Bogalusa as well in the fifties. Spent many an evening at the Acme. Loved Capo’s poboy and watched Ms Fontana make more than I can count while sitting at the counter. The roast was sliced- not chopped. The bread was pressed on the last turn before wrapping it. She used a sauce of mayo mustard and chopped dill or sour pickles. Baby beefs were great too. She used all the same ingredients except sliced instead of French bread. Agree on Mikes. Not quite as good, but really good. Don’t agree on R&O, but they are good.
I keep looking, but no luck so far. A number of people in Bogalusa have given me recipes- even Fontana relatives, but not the same.
Really like your blog. Regards, Skip Ragland
Hey Skip-
Great memories all! Our small town was a special place with special people. Thanks for conjuring up so many tasty memories. All the best, George
Hello George, this article inspired me to write to say that the best sloppy roast beef po-boy that ever was is from Clarence and Lefty’s. The little restaurant and bar in the 9th Ward of New Orleans was on Almonaster, just off Galvez. The beef was sliced, had debris, fully loaded, dripping with that rich, delicious gravy. They used Binders French bread, in my opinion, superior to Leidenheimers. Dressed to the nines! You knew you had died and gone to po-boy heaven at first bite!
I live in Washington state now, missing so much of the beautiful and bountiful treasures of Louisiana that I had all around me growing up in New Orleans, but always enjoy reading your stories and comments. Like a visit with an old friend, thanks!
Hey Sandra- What a vivid memory–dripping with descriptive prose. I’ve not been to this po-boy spot, and I assume by your words that it is no longer open for business. For me, roast beef po-boys are the stuff of dreams, and no two are alike. I look forward to more comments from you, my new friend. Thanks!
Born in New Orleans and raised in Harahan (New Orleans 23). Live in northwest Florida (about 30 years), but the food I miss the most is a roast beef po’boy. Thanks so much for sharing. Short Stop on Transcontinental in Metairie and Mr. Poor Boy in River Ridge on Jefferson Hwy. have always been my favorites.
If you’re anywhere near Milton in NWFL, you’ve got to try Cosse’s Place on Stewart St, They have fabulous poboys, including roast beef. Even Patton’s hot sausage poboy is on the menu. I hope you get to try it!
Maybe someone in the group Bogalusa Then and now would know the true recipe
Hello George, this recipe has me salivating. However, up here in NELA I cannot find flank steak. My grocer tells me it is not very good seller, so they rarely stock it. Any suggestions for a substitute?
Hey Deanne- I am surprised you cannot find flank steak in Northeast Louisiana; it is quite common throughout the US. Flank is cut from the lower chest of the cow where it comes from the abdominal muscle. A good substitution is skirt steak which is what many refer to as fajita meat. Give it a try, but just like flank steak, be sure to chop it against the grain for maximum tenderness. All the best.
Thanks George…now I finally found some flank at Walmart, but they don’t have a tenderizing machine, so I’m going to beat it to death with a mallet, I guess.
Whenever me and my family visit Nawlins we go to R&O’s. I’ve been in Dallas since ’95 but still love home. Will try your recipe and give an update.
I know I’m super late to this game but trying this recipe tonight. I’m shocked that no one has mentioned Bear’s Po’Boys in Metairie. AMAZING. My wife and I live in St. Pete, she is a flight attendant, and I can’t tell you how many times we’ve flown over to NOLA for a Bear’s RB Po’ Boy and then turn around and come home on the next flight. Yes. . that good!
Tristan – I will be in New Orleans soon and look forward to trying a Bear’s roast beef. Thanks for the tip.
George – did you like it? We tried R&O and Domlicei’s on our last two visits. While both were good, I think I have figured out that I like the thiner debris sauce style over the thicker gravy style. At Bears I always order more debris and also get a side of their homemade ranch dressing for a little dipping sauce. . . .I’m drooling thinking about it now. Hope you got a chance to try it.
Also – tried your recipe before we went to R&O and I have to say you nailed it. I added a little beef base to the gravy to make it a bit richer but it was really good.
I just came home from a visit to Des Allemands, LA and had my first sloppy roast beef po’ boy. It was delicious! I have nothing to compare it to as I am from Tennessee and had never heard of one before but I can tell you it won’t be my last. I hope to try your recipe one day soon.
George , I am going to try to make your roast beef po’ boy recipe for family reunion with my brother and sister next week. Will let you know if I am successful. Since I live in FL now I’ll have to order my bread from Pouparts.
Mary
Hey Mary – Great to hear from you; if you’re in the Tampa area, look up my sister. As for this roast beef po’boy, it is gonna rock your world and make you long for Louisiana. All the best to you and Jim, and tell your brother I said hello.
Hi George, The last decent po-boy I had was at Clement’s in Old Algiers behind the Whitney bank. The ladies Mr. Clement had working his kitchen knew how to cook. I live in Florida, but have friends in Bogalusa, and it’s a great place to be. Thanks for the recipe,. I’m going to give it a try. My husband has never had a good roast beef po-boy and what they have here is basically deli meat with powdered gravy on it wrapped in a store-bought hoagie bun. They should be ashamed.. Anyway.. thanks so much for this.. I’m heading to the store tomorrow, ..Sincerely, Starla
Starla – You are correct: A Louisiana roast beef po’boy redefines the experience of eating a roast beef sandwich. Break out the napkins! Thanks for the comment.
Lived in Bogalusa for about ten years, I have a grandchild and family still there, and a daughter just over the line, We used to go over to a neighbors house, Mrs. Leathurs and eat RB po-boys on Christmas Eve, the best in the world, lol with the best memories! Will be trying your recipe in a few days, wish me luck, and God Bless
Thanks Sandy!
George, I was employed at Avondale Shipyards in Bridge City Louisiana. There were many, many places that served up a great roast beef po’boy. This was back n the sixties. I now reside outside of Baton Rouge. There is a place in Baton Rouge called Rocco’s. Rocco is a native of New Orleans, and if I remember correctly, he uses his mother’s recipe. I can honestly say that he serves the Best Roast Beef Po’boy that I have ever ate. Rocco’s is on Druscilla Lane right off I12. Give it a try if you’re ever in the city. I really enjoy your stories about food of New Orleans.
Hey John – Lots of great po’boys out there, and I am glad to have Rocco’s on my list to try. All the best.
I remember sitting at Capos with my grandfather Ed Sigrest (im greg sigrest ) and eating poboys. That had to be 1971 or 1972, i think after Camille hit Bogalusa. Anyway, I would love to have that recipe, if its not lost! Hit me up at gdsigrest62@gmail.com.
Hey Greg- I don’t have the original Capo’s recipe, but if anyone out there does, I hope they will post it here. Thanks.
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Never been to the Big Easy or the state of Louisiana(shame on me). Love the recipes.
Oh my! Capo’s roast beef po-boys. George, your boyhood memories are a perfect description of mine and everyone else that grew up in Bogalusa. I have tried po-boys and subs all over and nothing I’ve tasted compares. Another sandwich that I miss is The Chicksteak sandwich with gravy from the famous Acme Cafe in Bogalusa, a sandwich that your family made famous! Your parents are so proud of your culinary expertise. Can’t wait to try your recipe.
Hey Jumbo-
Thanks for the kind comment; it is much appreciated. All the best.