My Cajun recipe for Catfish Courtbouillon uses a pungent seafood stock (I make mine from dried shrimp) and the addition of a couple of spoonfuls of dark roux. Rather than the red gravy Creole version, in this Cajun recipe for courtbouillon I use a light hand on the tomatoes favoring canned diced tomatoes rather than a thick tomato sauce. I do add an extra dose of hot and spicy to this dish and once you try it you will understand. This is an old-school Catfish Courtbouillon recipe and a tribute to the Cajun cooking traditions that have been preserved and passed along to new generations of cooks. And now to you.
Catfish fillets swim in a rich and spicy sauce in this classic Cajun recipe for Catfish Courtbouillon. (All photos credit: George Graham)
Rosalie Fontenot Waldrop is my mother-in-law and a sweet Cajun lady who grew up in rural southwest Louisiana at a time when change threatened the traditional French Acadian way of life. Back in the post-war 1940s and 50s there was a movement afoot throughout Acadiana to eradicate the French language and homogenize Cajuns and Creoles into a more mainstream way of life.
Children were forbidden to speak French as reenacted in this Vermilionville (living history museum) schoolroom.
Rosalie was raised in a predominantly Cajun French-speaking family in Allen Parish and as a schoolgirl she recalls that children were punished (some made to kneel in grains of rice) for speaking anything but the English language in school. In those days, there was a shadow of shame cast over Cajun French traditions and her language, customs, music and foodways were in jeopardy.
It was the emergence in 1968 of an organization called the Council for the Development of French in Louisiana (CODOFIL) that rescued the culture from extinction and breathed pride back into Cajun ways. Today, CODOFIL is a strong political advocate and social force in promoting the language and culture of French-speaking Louisiana. Cajun and Zydeco music is recognized (Grammy-winning) worldwide as a significant genre and Cajun cooking is heralded as one of the most unique food cultures in America.
And these days, you can walk into most any small-town barbershop anywhere in Acadiana and hear the Cajun French language spoken with pride. Even in the city of Lafayette there is a popular trend of “French tables” in small cafés where anyone can sit down and listen in on the Cajun French conversation. And best of all are the traditional music halls that host Cajun jam sessions of French-speaking musicians in the rural towns that dot the Cajun landscape.
On Saturday mornings in downtown Breaux Bridge you can find French music being played, and spoken, with pride..
My wife’s mother never lost her love for her rural upbringing and the virtues of a simple Cajun life. She still adheres to many culinary rituals that she learned from her mother growing up in the small enclave of Kings Farm near Kinder, Louisiana. One of those is a Lenten season Cajun recipe of Catfish Courtbouillon. As any good Catholic in Acadiana knows, Fridays are for seafood during that six-week period of prayer and fasting called Lent held each year between Ash Wednesday and Easter. This special Cajun recipe for Catfish Courtbouillon was one that was on the Fontenot table frequently.
If you’ve ever been to France and eaten in a Michelin-rated restaurant, you’ve surely seen a courtbouillon dish on the menu. Well, this is nothing like that. The classic French technique is related to gently poaching fish in a delicate, herb-infused stock, while the Cajun recipe version of catfish courtbouillon (coo bee yon) is a downhome South Louisiana fish dish. It’s a highly seasoned stew featuring tomatoes along with the holy trinity of vegetables and a good seafood stock. The French use upscale fish such as sole or turbot, while here in Louisiana it’s usually whatever fish are biting that day. Redfish or even lesser fish like gar or gaspergou show up in the courtbouillon pot, but the favorite Cajun recipe of most rural homes is catfish courtbouillon.
Serve twice as much French bread as usual with the wickedly spicy sauce in this Catfish Courtbouillon.
- 4 strips smoked bacon, chopped
- 2 medium yellow onions, chopped
- 2 green bell peppers, chopped
- 1 cup diced celery
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- ½ cup chopped fresh parsley
- 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- 1 medium fresh jalapeno, seeded and diced
- 2 cups canned diced tomatoes, drained
- 4 cups seafood stock
- 2 tablespoons dark roux, such as Rox's Roux
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 tablespoon Acadiana Table Cajun Seasoning Blend, see recipe here
- 1 teaspoon hot sauce
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 2 pounds catfish fillets, cut into large pieces
- 4 cups cooked Louisiana long-grain white rice, such as Supreme
- 1 cup diced green onion tops, for garnish
- In a black iron pot with a heavy lid over medium-high heat, add the bacon pieces and sauté until browned, about 5 minutes. Remove the bacon and reserve.
- In the same pot, add the onions, bell peppers, and celery to the bacon grease and sauté until browned. Reduce the heat and add the garlic, parsley, thyme, jalapeno, and tomatoes. Stir to incorporate and add the stock and roux. Stir the mixture and add the bay leaf and bacon pieces along with the seasoning and hot sauce. Cover and let cook at a simmer for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.
- Uncover the pot and taste the mixture. Add salt and pepper to taste along with any additional hot sauce until it achieves your desired heat level. 15 minutes before serving, submerge the catfish fillets into the sauce and cover. Cook at a simmer until the catfish is tender, about 10 minutes. Cover, turn off the heat and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.
- For plating, mound a large portion of rice in the center of a plate or shallow bowl and spoon the courtbouillon sauce around along with pieces of the catfish. Sprinkle with green onion tops and serve with hot French bread and more hot sauce on the side.
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Thanks, George.
Hey George — it was great reading a bit of the Cajun history and a genuine reflection of Cajun life. My father was one of “those “ kids who got in trouble for speaking what was natural for him. He was even threatened with school expulsion. That was the beginning of the life lessons that taught him to be ashamed of his heritage…one so special that I’ve discovered our ancestor, Francois Savoy was one of the earliest settlers in Acadia, Nova Scotia.
Your recipe — Soooo good, so correct that my family would finish the pot! Ya know, It’s disappointing to see so many obviously Creole dishes labeled as Cajun. The second I saw brown instead of red, I told my friend that I’d found the real thing.
Then I read your story—what a wonderful lagniappe!! I will be sending it all out tomorrow—thank you. Now I’m off to find some of your other writing. Y’all take care.
Hey, Hey Paula-
Storytelling is what the Acadiana Table is all about, and I am so glad you found us. The rich heritage of Cajun and Creole cooking has endless stories and delicious tales waiting to be told. I am privileged to be a part of it. Thanks for listening.
Baw, we only eat medium grain rice around here.
Hey T boy-
I’m curious: why medium grain over long grain? Medium grain cooks up softer and stickier than long grain … is it the texture or the flavor that draws you to it? Or is it simply your family’s tradition? I like both and once I ladle on the gumbo or gravy, I am hard pressed to know the difference. Please give me a heads up on this age-old question…and thanks for the comment.
Stickier rice hold the gravy better!
My father also was punished in school for speaking French. His mother spoke only French until her 10th child began school and only then begin to learn English. My father never spoke or taught any of his eight children French. In later years he shared his story with us and regretted not sharing his first language with us. The food and many traditions were part of our upbringing
So for that we are thankful.
Hey Adrienne-
Thanks for sharing your sentiments of the importance of our Louisiana heritage. It’s never to late to learn the Cajun French language (or at least the food language) and pass it down. All the best.
First of all, thank you for the recipe! Secondly, thank you for the Cajun history. My parents are both from Acadia Parish, but moved to Texas when I was young. I was raised in Texas and the Cajun French traditions were… for the most part…obsolete and therefore, was not exposed to our Louisiana heritage much except when we visited our grandparents.
For many years, I have had a longing for the Cajun culture and to be able to pass it on to my kids. I love everything about it. Are there online courses for taking up the Cajun French language?
I would certainly like more information about CODOFIL.
Suzy- Bienvenue à la Acadiana Table. Glad to hear how passionate you are about your Cajun roots. Not sure where to fine Cajun french language tutorials online, but the Council for the Development of French in Louisiana (CODOFIL) should point you in the right direction. Here is the link to CODOFIL. Best to you.
Yeah, except the surname Fontenot is a French Creole name that was present in Louisiana before the Acadians arrived. Proof of the pre-Acadian Louisiana French Creole surname Fontenot can be found online. Your mother in law is a French creole descendant. This whole Cajun this, Cajun that has gotten out of hand. Cajun historically meant Acadian, yet most folks claiming to be Cajuns today are hardly Acadians. Cajuns nowadays are usually a mix of Acadian, French creole (white Creole type), continental French and for many, Spanish, German, English or even Native American. “Cajuns” are merely Creoles. Creoles are anyone that descends from the colonial Louisiana population, whom used to the term Creole to denote anyone born in the colony of Louisiana or any other New World colony (the Americas) vs the Old World, especially French or Spanish colonies.
The creole courtbouillon of the greater New Orleans area you can see came from the French courtbouillon because of its preparation. It is stock, seasoning vegetables, parsley, garlic, thyme, bay leaf and a Louisiana addition, tomatoes. There is no roux in a true creole courtbouillon because it’s the direct descendant of the French courtbouillon and there is no roux in French courtbouillon. The sauce thickens on its own from simmering before combined with fish and there is no roux to overpower the delicate flavor of the fish. But to each his own. I’m a French Creole (white Creole type) from the greater New Orleans area.
Hey Robert – Thanks for your insight and information. All the best.
Hey Robert, you are correct regarding the “Creole” courbouillon of the greater New Orleans area, particularly in regards to omission of roux. However, I think you are being quite flippant with some of your statements as some of us Cajuns are more Acadian than you posit, even if we all were considered to be Creole under the nomenclature of the 1700-1800’s.
Anyhow, people/food/language/culture change along the way, and the Acadian version of Courbouillon mostly contains roux. Sure, it may not be considered better than the French Creole version, but it’s just as good in my opinion.
Thanks for contributing, and post your favorite recipe for me to try… may end up making the rotation.
Cheers.
I love your recipes. And Sharon Sebastien and her seafood shop.
Thanks Robin. And tell Sharon I said “hello” during your next visit. And be sure to buy some of their fresh turtle meat for a sauce piquante. All the best.
This is an outstanding dish with amazing flavors to set in front of family and guests and I highly encourage everyone to make this and present it to others to enjoy. Easy to prepare and fun to talk about and delicious to eat. Do it now!
Thanks Harry!
Looks delicious … will make.
I’m making this tonight. Get George’s book….it’s awesome! It’s the most authentic book for this side of the basin.
Transplant –
Thanks for the comment. All the best.
That”s Couvillion! Court Bouillon has no roux or tomatoes.
Hey Marty- As with numerous Cajun French words and phrases, there are different variations. Check out my Cajun/Creole Dictionary for a glimpse at more culinary terms. All the best.
The minute I saw the word “bacon” I knew I’d discovered the real thing, a recipe similar to my Aunt Willie’s in Melville. My Uncle Ed was the most prolific fisherman in the parish, and I knew I would never come home empty-handed if I went out to the bayou, marshes, or river fishing with him. Depending on the day, we would come home with a load of pumpkin seed, gaspergou, gar, striped bass, redfish, or speckled trout, and she would choose among them to make her courtbouillon. Yum!
Great memories, Ken. Keep the comments coming.
Mr. Graham,
Don’t know if you remember me (Bill de la Houssaye) from Crowley. I bought your cookbook and enjoy the recipes and stories of the Cajun Way of life. FYI: I’m one who grew up in the 50’s and was stopped from speaking Cajun French like your mother-in-law. Of course you met my dad DeBlanc (D.A. de la Houssaye), who spoke french in his seed rice business in Kaplan, La.
Courtbouillon, Sauce Picquet, Gumbo, Stews, it’s all good for the soul, but a good Pot Roast, Chaudin, Fricassee or Debris is all hard to beat. As long as it is Cajun and Creole cooking, it’s all good. Keep cooking Cajun and Creole dishes, Take care.
Hey Bill- Great to hear from you, and I remember the de la Houssaye family very well. Your family has an exceptional French heritage, and have helped to preserve our culture with your legacy in the rice business. All the best to you and your family.
I’m going to try this ASAP. Is it okay to add shrimp, crab, and or crawfish to this dish as well or too overpowering?
Hey Barron- I’m a free form cook that loves to innovate in the kitchen so I say, “go for it.” Let us know how it turns out.
Daughter #1 earned her undergraduate degree at Tulane and Louisiana has been my love-fest ever since 1989. I have met and own autographed texts from Paul Prudhomme, John Besh, and John Folse. Even have a Justin Wilson from his TV run. My wife was French-Canadian (settled in CT) and we’ve Zydeco’d at The Maple Leaf and Grant Street Dance Hall and oystered gorgingly at Black’s when they were still there. Your recipe speaks “lagniappe” all over it. Keep up the good work. Enjoy your writing and the grand recipe results.
Hey Paul – Thanks for the kind words. Best to you and your family.
I am so glad that I found your site. It inspired me to make my first roux and courtbouillon. I made my courtbouillon with chicken and shrimp, and it came out wonderful. I can’t wait to make my own Cajun spice! I’ll be back often. Your stories behind the recipes are moving, and I’m eager to come visit Louisiana and learn more about the Cajun culture. A big thank you to you and yours!
Jodi- You just made my day with your delightful comment. Your words are what make writing this blog so worthwhile. Sharing the beauty of our delicious food culture is my goal, and I am so happy you get it. Thanks.
OUTSTANDING RECIPE – can’t wait to try ALL of the others! Thanks.
Thanks John!
Love Acadian food.
Love this! So great to find a Cajun not Creole recipe for this. Thank you!