“We shall not cease from exploration
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.”
T. S. Eliot
Far-flung corners of the world with unique culinary cultures have always pulled at me in ways that add richness to my life. Some many years ago my travels led me to Aix-en-Provence in southern France where I discovered the connection between food and art. Over the course of that short visit, I found that the people of Provence do not just view food as sustenance, they celebrate a reverence for its cultural importance. It is a market-focused region that revels in its connection to growers, processors, and culinary artisans. It struck me as a stunningly visual convergence of style and taste that blend deliciously. Years later it struck me again; it’s just like my home.
Acadiana.
That culturally rich region of southwest Louisiana steeped in French tradition and a generational love for food, art, and music. I’ve discovered that my years of living in Lafayette have placed me smack dab in the center of an exciting Cajun and Creole culinary landscape. Acadiana is peppered with amazing stories of colorful people and unique products the rest of the world has yet to sample.
I live, work, and play here with my incredible wife Roxanne and our talented daughter Lauren. My writing and photographs reflect our love of life in Louisiana and our passion for good food shared with great friends.
Welcome to our Acadiana Table.
Frequently Asked Questions
What / where is Acadiana?
It is a region, a lifestyle, a state of mind. Acadiana, located in southwest Louisiana, is the area surrounding Lafayette, where I live. The spirit of Acadiana weaves throughout the many towns that stretch south all the way to the Gulf. It’s Cajun country and the heart and soul of the French Acadians in America.
What is Cajun cooking? What is Creole cooking? And, what the heck is the difference?
I avoid this question as much as possible. It is the subject of much debate. The answer I like most is one you will find when someone is avoiding the discussion: A Creole feeds one family with three chickens, and a Cajun feeds three families with one chicken. The point is that Creole cooking is more associated with citified New Orleans culture of European cooking by servants of African descent–butter-rich sauces and tomato-based dishes. Cajun is rural South Louisiana–country food that is less fuss and more taste.
Truth be told, in Acadiana those two worlds have blended together to blur the lines of distinction and create a whole new genre of cooking steeped in rural authenticity.
Are you a chef?
No, you will never hear me refer to myself as a chef–I have way too much respect and jealous admiration for the profession. I am a cook and a self-taught one at that. I’ve owned a restaurant, but no, not a chef. I’ve cooked on Food Network TV, but still, not a chef. Perhaps one day, when I don a toque and fire up the burners, sharpen my 10-inch chef’s knife and toil away for a fourteen-hour double shift in quiet obscurity, maybe then I can proudly call myself a chef.
How did you learn to cook?
Curiosity. No really, I’ve always been intrigued by the art and science of food. I grew up in a small-town Louisiana restaurant family, and my father was one of the best cooks I’ve ever known. For me, he made it okay for a boy to want to stir a pot. Learning to cook is a matter of trial and error. You have to burn a roux before you learn to make a roux. Every kitchen disaster is the path to delicious discovery.
How do you come up with your recipes?
Most all my recipes are unique interpretations of completely different recipes. This is the fundamental platform for learning how to cook. I challenge myself to think differently about the tried and true traditional dishes by reinterpreting them into Cajun or Creole versions. If I see a good recipe, I will experiment with variations of ingredients and wind up with a unique hybrid. In fact, many of my Louisiana-inspired recipes begin with unrelated ethnic dishes that evolve with the flavors and spices of Acadiana. From time to time, I will feature a specific recipe of a friend or chef for which I will credit them prominently. And if you like, please feel free to adapt my recipes and make them into your own versions. I will be most flattered.
You use a lot of alcohol in your recipes. What’s the deal?
It’s all about the flavor that remains as the alcohol content burns off. Cooking with alcohol is classic French and classic Cajun and Creole as well. The only difference is here along the bayou we usually drink the alcohol while cooking.
Your recipes list a lot of ingredients that I can’t find outside of Louisiana. What to do?
Just as in any ethnic recipe, to make an authentic Cajun or Creole dish it is important that you source key ingredients. I have included links to LouisianaDirectSeafood.com and CajunGrocer.com and other online vendors. And as a last resort, you can substitute ingredients. Believe me, I once made gumbo for a crowd at the Sundance Film Festival; just try to find andouille sausage in Park City, Utah.
If I send you a recipe, photo or product, will you feature it on Acadiana Table?
Yes, no, maybe. If it’s good, I’m interested. If it’s really good, I will use it. If it’s delicious and delectable, I will eat it. Nothing guaranteed. Nothing returned.
Do you write all this stuff?
Yessiree! Like it or not, this is my life and my opinion about it. That’s what is so great about blogging–total freedom to express your viewpoint. And if your view is different, then you should write a blog, too. As my good friend Aaron Neville says in song, “tell it like it is.”
What food writers do you follow?
That’s easy, Marcelle Bienvenu. No one, I mean no one, knows more about Cajun and Creole food lore than Marcelle. She lives it and is surrounded by it every day, and she can articulate it in words like no one else. She is James Beard-nominated, along with co-author and food writer Judy Walker, for a post-Katrina cookbook Cooking up a Storm that literally saved New Orleans’ recipe heritage, but her first cookbook Who’s Your Mama, Are You Catholic and Can You Make a Roux? is my favorite.
No, I mean what writers on the national scene?
Anthony Bourdain. Until his untimely passing in 2018, he wrote about our Cajun culture with passion. His talent was in cutting to the core and sucking out the marrow of a story with words that ooze truth. In 2011, with his Travel Channel crew in tow, Bourdain came to Acadiana and in one 30-minute segment of No Reservations, he clearly defined Cajun culinary culture. Rest in peace, my friend.
Do you take your own food photos, and what equipment do you use?
Yes, all of them, unless I clearly credit another photographer. Check my photography page for more details.
Have you written a cookbook, and can I buy it?
Actually, I’ve published two cookbooks.
Fresh From Louisiana: The Soul of Cajun and Creole Home Cooking is my newest. Focused on the fresh, seasonal ingredients of our Louisiana cuisine, the recipes are creative interpretations of classic dishes, and new ones that will challenge your thinking about Cajun and Creole. There are stories of interesting places and colorful people that are a part of our foodways. The book is available now in our website STORE, where you can reserve an autographed copy at a 15% discount off retail.
Acadiana Table: Cajun and Creole Home Cooking from the Heart of Louisiana debuted in October, 2016, and is available in bookstores everywhere or online. And if you would like an autographed copy of my cookbook priced at a 15% discount, then visit our STORE site. Published by Boston-based Harvard Common Press, it is a 320-page hardcover collection of stories, 125 recipes, and 180 photographs that reflect my passion for Cajun and Creole culinary culture. The reviews of the book have been stellar, and no cookbook collection is complete without it.
What makes your cookbooks different?
More than just recipe books, each cookbook is a kitchen-table conversation about a subject—Cajun and Creole food—that is misunderstood by many, and loved by many more. I take a deep dive into a mysterious foodway with every tasty bite a discovery, and the sole reason to dig deeper into the story of this fascinating culinary world. If you like taking culinary chances and enjoy a sense of adventure, then these books will play to your passion for creative cooking. To read media critics reviews, go to the press page, and if you’d like to know what actual readers think, go to the reader reviews here.
I’m traveling to New Orleans, but why should I go to Lafayette?
Think Paris and Provence, San Francisco and Napa. New Orleans is a must-see city, but to discover the real essence of French Cajun and Creole culture, you need to take a two-hour drive to Acadiana. Oh, and bring an appetite and an ice chest–large ones.
Where should I locate my stay when I come to Acadiana?
Lafayette. It is the central point to discover all of Acadiana. It has good hotels, a vibrant downtown and a cool arts scene. It is also its culinary capital. Named the “Best Food City in the USA” in the Rand McNally/USA TODAY Best of the Road® Rally, Lafayette has more great restaurants per capita than most any place in America. Additionally, and for good reason, Southern Living magazine named Lafayette, the “Tastiest Town in the South.”
Do you have restaurant tips for when I travel to Acadiana?
Generally speaking, if I write about it, it is worth a stop. But, like most adventures, you should come without an agenda. Explore the backroads and find where the locals eat. Stop for quick bites along the way. If you need a heading, be sure to go online and visit Lafayette Convention and Visitors Commission.
Hey George, did you know you had a run-on sentence on page four and a typo on page six?
Yep, you win the prize. I secretly hide subtle grammar errors in all my posts just to see if you’re paying attention. Seriously, I’m out here all alone with no editor or proofer. If something bothers you, let me know so I can fix it. Most constructive input is well taken and appreciated.
Where can I get authentic Cajun and Creole food outside of Louisiana?
You can’t.
Jacqueline B Graff says
Hey George, ……MEATBALL FRICASSÉE. I’m confused about the recipe. Ingredients call for 2 cups yellow onions and 1 cup each of green bell pepper and celery. Then the gravy calls for the same ingredients and same amounts. Will the recipe ultimately use 4 cups of onions and 2 each of the bell pepper and celery? Thanks. I already receive your recipes so I guess I’m a subscriber. LOVE TO RECEIVE YOUR RECIPES!
George Graham says
Hey Jacqueline – Yes, you read it correct. I’m using lots of the Cajun trinity of vegetables in both the meatballs and the gravy. Feel free to cut back on the onion if you like, but I like the flavor the aromatics bring to this rich, dark gravy. All the best.
Laura Byrd says
Hey George. You probably don’t remember me but my former husband, Daryl, and I lived in LFT and knew you and Roxanne. I am sitting at lunch in St. Remy de Provence with a group of women, three of whom are from Alexandria. Two of them ordered pork belly and were discussing where to get it in Cenla and one started raving about a blog she followed out of LFT by a guy named George. I said, wait, could it possibly be George Graham? And YES it was!!! I am constantly amazed at what a small world it is!!! Just wanted to let you know you are world-renowned. Hope all is well with you and yours. You are a RENAISSANCE man. Laura
George Graham says
Hey Laura-
For sure, I remember you, and I am so glad to hear you are in one of my favorite locations. If you read my ABOUT section on the blog, you will find out that it was a trip to Provence that led me to writing about the food culture of Louisiana. I spent a most enlightening week in Aix-en-Provence (just an hour down the road from St. Remy) that sent me on a journey of inspiration. Thanks for all your kind words. All the best to you and your friends.
Linda West says
I enjoyed reading your blog and your recipes. In today’s world, people need to know about their heritage. When cooking three square meals a day and you sit down at the table as a family and connect, it is making memories and eating good food.
Chris Lochas says
After using some of the roux do I have to refrigerate the rest of the jar?
George Graham says
Chris-
No need to refrigerate the roux. Although some like to store the opened jar in the refrigerator, roux (oil and flour) is made with shelf-stable ingredients and is perfectly fine on the shelf in your pantry. All the best.
Roxane says
Hi George and Roxanne! My name is Roxane LeBlanc and I was born in Texas but family is from Lafayette and Breaux Bridge area. I just happened to see someone on Facebook talk about Rox’s Roux! Love the name;)
Von Magee says
Hi George – I stumbled across your website and, although the name sounded familiar because I knew a George Graham from living and growing up in Bogalusa, I didn’t make the connection until I saw the picture of you and your beautiful family. Great to see you and congratulations on The Acadiana Table.
George Graham says
Hey Von- I remember you well, and it is great to hear from you. Hope you are doing well and I wish you all the best. I write a lot about Bogalusa (Acme Cafe chic steak sandwich, Capo’s po’boys, and the Frostop Lot-O-Burger are just a few you might remember) and you can find them on the website or in my cookbook. Stay in touch.
Bryan says
A great BIG HELLO from Harare, George. I enjoyed reading your post about the cracklins, made me grin. You live in a great place; Louisiana sounds such a dreamy, spicy, laid-back place. I would really like to visit there some day, when this virus thing is over. In the meantime, I can only visit your site and imagine the food, and the great surroundings. I once read on the ‘net about an elderly Louisiana lady who cooks such great food, foodies come from all over the place to have some. They even wash the dirty dishes, too! Wow. Do you know her? Anyway, got to go now. Wish you and your great family a great and wonderful day.
George Graham says
Hey Bryan – Here in Cajun country, that elderly lady is just about everybody’s grandmother. Great cooks abound; it’s a cultural thing. All the best.
Jimmy says
Love your story. Please add me to your list. Thanks
George Graham says
Hey Jimmy- You have been added and will receive updates via email. Thanks.
Melissa Brandon says
Hi George and Roxanne. I love your blog and recipes! I was raised in SE Texas (Bridge City) and SW Louisiana (Lake Charles) but have lived in Kansas City MO for over 25 years now. I love Cajun food and raised my three sons on it. I enjoy living in the Midwest, but I sure do miss the delicious Cajun food. So I have begun to share these tasty recipes with all my friends here in Kansas City, and they look forward to them. My friends and I are going to gather together soon to have a Cajun Feast and prepare some of my favorite recipes from Louisiana and some of yours that I have tried. They cannot wait and neither can I! Thank you both for sharing this wonderful culture with others. We have to pass it on, it’s just too good not to! Have a blessed day and thanks again my Cajun friends!
George Graham says
Hey Melissa- What a wonderful message, and I wish I could be there with you in KC for the Cajun Feast. Thanks for spreading the gospel of Cajun cooking. All the best.
Carla says
Hi George and Roxanne!
I was born in NOLA and reared in Lake Charles (now in VA). I have made countless pots of gumbo for years and always like getting the roux as dark as I can (about the color of Rox’s). I have NEVER had a separation problem when adding the stock to the roux… until NOW! At 62, you would think I would have it down pat, but obviously I don’t. A couple of days ago, I spent the whole day researching online and cooking multiple batches of roux, only to find out that each and every time I added the stock, the separation started. I have always made my gumbo adding the stock to the roux, not the other way around. However, after having this problem all of a sudden, I may try making the roux (cooled down) first and adding it to the stock (hot?). I looked up Emeril’s recipe and Paul Prudhomme’s and both say that the stock needs to be cool when added to a hot roux. I tried everything… cold, cool, warm, hot and nothing worked! I am definitely purchasing some of Rox’s Roux, but I still enjoy (or used to – LOL) making my own roux. My husband likes it so much he will take a spoonful of it and eat it after it has cooled down from the pot. Like I mentioned before, the roux I make turns out beautifully. It’s when I combine the stock that I have the separation problem. I’m hoping you can help me out. I use vegetable oil and all purpose flour, but typically use slightly more flour than oil.
George Graham says
Hey Carla- There’s lots of opinions on this topic and here is mine. Hot stock is always my starting point, and I seldom have a problem. That said, I most always have to skim my gumbo of excess oil that floats to the top, but that is different than “separation.” Skimming the pot of grease and foam helps to clarify the gumbo for a cleaner taste and mouthfeel; all Cajun cooks do this. If you do experience a true separation, pull the meats from the gumbo and boil the base gumbo on high for 10 minutes. Stop and skim away any oil and foam. The remaining base should combine so that you can add back all of the ingredients. I hope this helps.
Debi Leger says
Your passion, your heart…I can never get enough of your reading. Like a fine wine or an incredible meal. It takes me back to times when I was a little girl standing on the school next to the stove listening and watching my French grandma work her magic. I’m blessed to have her pots ‘n pans, over 100 years old, to cook tasty French dishes. I too am learning everyday…the art of cooking is like a wonderful love affair. Thank you so much for the recipes, pictures, banter and sharing your family. I’m Canadian, now living in Lake Charles since 2005. I married a Cajun from Ville Platte. Life is good, and I am blessed in so many ways. Thank you, sir. It touched my heart when you mentioned Anthony Bourdain…he is sadly missed.
George Graham says
Hey Debi- What a beautifully written comment; I appreciate it very much. And it is my honor to tell the stories of our Cajun and Creole food culture. All the best.
Helen says
I enjoyed reading your comments and all the comments of others. I lived in Houma for 12 years and Lafayette for 27 years. I am in Texas now, but my heart is in Louisiana! As a young bride, my husband and I moved to Houma in 1962. I learned to cook from the Cajun ladies I met and became friends with. Miss all the great food places in Lafayette, especially the French bread, po’boys, and wonderful seafood dishes.
Keep blogging. You brought back wonderful memories of my life in Acadiana.
George Graham says
Helen- Thanks for your nice comments; you made my day. All the best to you and your family.
Tem says
Have you tried air frying your crawfish tail hand puff pies, and if so, how did that turnout?
George Graham says
Tem- No, I haven’t tried cooking them in an air fryer. Please give it a try and let us know how it turns out. Best to you.
Jacqueline Deveau says
Just a little something: I am Canadian and my husbands family is from Nova Scotia, where there are many Acadian families. When we visited there some years ago, his Aunt Celeste did some cooking. Have you ever made Rappee Pie (not sure of the spelling)? My husband always wanted to go to Louisiana and see if maybe there were some people who originally came from Nova Scotia. I was planning a trip when he passed away. I am going to make some Pimento Cheese.
Lorraine Williams says
Hi Jacqueline. I am Canadian as well. My dad was born in Yarmouth, Nova Scotia and was a good cook. His lineage came from the D’Entremonts. He made Rappie pie for us every now and then, but my favourite was my mom’s tourtiere. Her family originated from Marseille whereas my dad’s side were from Normandy France in the 1600’s. There are a few restaurants in Yarmouth that serve Rappie pie. I’m getting too old to travel now but sure wish I’d made time to visit LaFayette. Don’t wait too long.
Jean Knight says
Hi Mr. Graham. Are you the gentleman that owned Graham’s Cafe in Bogalusa, Louisiana for a while?
George Graham says
Hey Jean – My brother Jackie Graham owned Graham’s Cafe, and my father George Graham, Sr. owned Acme Cafe, both in Bogalusa. I left Bogalusa for college and never returned to live there, but I have very fond memories of growing up there. If you read my blog or my two cookbooks, you will pick up references to my family and Bogalusa within my writing. All the best.
Caroline M Gifford says
I respect you already. Acadian, blend of our Cajun and Creole. My family is from all over down south and Appalachian hills. I found you through my frustrations from searching through Creole and Cajun cooking.
Caroline M Gifford says
Could you and your family please put out there a recipe for Black Walnut cake, like my Grandma used to make? Spent my summer days with her when a kid. Slept in her bed where I felt safe, and she let me help brush her hair early, she braided it, then we went out and milked her jerseys and guernsey. Came back in and she would put cornbread batter in her cast iron skillet… I would almost patiently wait for us to make cornbread mush together to feed to the cats. I truly love your presence on this. It’s like almost being back with my Grandma.
Bev says
I was given a bunch of meat labeled beef soup shank. Would that work in your braised beef shank with Parsley pecan pesto recipe? If yes, what adjustments would I need to make? If the answer is no, do you have any recommendations for a different recipe?
Thanks!
George Graham says
Bev-
Give it a try using the recipe, but the timing will vary according to the size of your shank. All the best.
Ginny says
Hello. Is your Sweet Heat Seasoning a copycat recipe of the House of Autry’s Sweet Heat Seasoning? Thanks for your response.
George Graham says
Ginny – No. Never heard of it. All the best.
Frederick Mohr says
How long can I keep your Roux if it has not been opened? I have some that may be past your expiration date. Thanks.
George Graham says
Frederick- If it is longer than three years since it was made, I would toss it. All the best.
Kelley Little says
Looking to purchase one of the cookbooks, is there a table of contents I can view before purchasing? I’m looking for the roux recipe and the Cajun Seafood Recipe and I want to make sure that I’m purchasing the correct one.
George Graham says
Kelley- My first cookbook Acadiana Table has the roux recipe and a variety of seafood recipes. I know you’ll love it.
Sharon k Boullion says
We had Smoked Ponce for New Years from Coleman’s in Iota.La. I had never eaten Smoked Ponce. I used to pick one up in Morse rather Lyons Point, but the ones we bought there were not smoked and they made a beautiful brown gravy. I am 76 years old,born in Jennings, raised in Mermentau home of the River Club. My grandparents raised me. My grandfather had the only barber shop in town and he could speak a little English but my grandmother couldn’t, so I had to learn to speak French.She was the best cook. She taught me what good food tasted like and she taught me. Thanks so much with your recipes they remind me of something that I had not cooked in a while .Sharon Boullion
George Graham says
Hey Sharon- Love Jeff Davis Parish, and the Mermentau River is especially beautiful. You are correct in that ponce makes a spectacular gravy, and when set atop a mound of Louisiana white rice, it is heavenly. Too bad that more folks haven’t discovered it, and it is my job (and now yours) to help promote this long-forgotten dish of our heritage. All the best.
Scott Rodgers says
Is this the George Graham of Lafayette ad agency fame from the 80’s? If that’s the same Roxanne I remember, I’m guessing so.
Look’s like you’re doing well at what you love. I just used your gumbo recipe (sort of); Nothing like a good bowl of gumbo on a frigid winter’s day. Love for good Cajun food was one of the things I took with me when I left Lafayette…
Best regards
George Graham says
Hey Scott- Thanks for the comment, and I am glad to hear you are spreading the gospel of Cajun food. All the best.
Julie Westhoff says
I can’t find the list of ingredients for the roux. Please provide. I am now allergic to onions and garlic. It won’t stop me from your recipes. I just want to make sure I can eat the roux. Thank you so much!
George Graham says
Hey Julie – Roux is simply flour and oil cooked together. I use all-purpose flour and vegetable oil, and for a gumbo, the onions and other ingredients are added later. You can leave out the onions and garlic, and just add celery and green bell pepper as a base. Take a look at my wife’s video for a tutorial on how to make Rox’s Roux. All the best.
Hannah says
Looking for your crawfish meat pie recipe.
George Graham says
Hannah- The story is currently offline, but will be posted as the lead story on Monday, November 27 at 8:30am. Be sure to make a batch for the holidays! All the best.
Fr Daniel WIlliamson says
I was reading through the thread, and the recipe sounds good and authentic! I’m from Lafayette and grew up eating and making gumbo. I just thought I’d throw this idea out even though it might sound like a “mortal” sin, and I’m a catholic priest! My mom started making her roux in the oven a number of years ago. I tried it, and it works great, especially when I was often making gumbo for three hundred–that’s a lot of roux. Essentially, you just mix your flour and oil in the same proportions as you normally would and put in the oven at 350 degrees, though my mom does 400 degrees. You leave it uncovered and stir every half hour until it’s as dark as you want it. When you mix it up it should be about the consistency of pancake batter. You can’t mess up; it doesn’t burn and comes out silky smooth. If for some reason it gets thick, you can always add more oil or flour, if too thin. My mom and dad do a twenty-five-pound bag of flour and jar the roux for the year. Happy eating!
George Graham says
Fr. Daniel- Yes, an oven-made roux is quite common. Restaurant kitchens frequently use this method since it requires less time and labor cost. The key (just like a stovetop roux) is to keep a sharp eye on it when it reaches the final stage. If left unattended, it will burn. Thanks for sharing your method.
Charles P says
Love your definition of Creole vs Cajun.
Never thought too much about it, but it seems legit.
George Graham says
Charles- Thanks for the great review. Rest assured that both cultures and cuisines are intermingled and equally represent the rich food culture of Louisiana. All the best.
Connie E Landron says
Hi y’all,
My name is Connie Ellen Wilkerson Landron, I was born in Arlington, Texas and grew up in Burleson, 14 miles straight south of Ft. Worth. Lol. After my husband Victor passed, I moved to Janesville, WI to be close to my remaining family.
I can’t tell y’all how much I miss my Southern home and how happy I was to stumble over your site. I look forward to the coming emails of Southern stories and soul-warming recipes. Most cooks up here seem afraid of spice! LOL
Be warm, be dry, be safe, be blessed.
Barefoot Leon says
I watched the video about making a roux. Loved it. I didn’t realize it took that long. Must be why I never had a roux as dark as I wanted! The only question I have is to know what temperature she used to cook it.
George Graham says
Hey Barefoot Leon- That is a common question, but a hard one to answer. Begin the oil and flour on medium heat, and while it cooks quickly, you will begin to adjust the heat down as it goes through its different color stages. In the final dark stage, your heat should be at a low simmer. After you do this a few times, it will come naturally to you. Happy cooking!