Just last week I was telling a good friend that I had plans to make Shrimp and Okra Gumbo for the weekend. Without hesitation, she asked, “Cajun gumbo or Creole gumbo?” Oh, here I go again. After a 10-minute explanation, I could see my friend regretted even asking the question. But, it is a difficult subject, and one that has engaged the highest level of scholarly study. If you have a bit shy of ten minutes, pour another cup of coffee and hear me out.
Shrimp and Okra Gumbo blends the best of Cajun cooking and Creole cooking in one delicious bowl. (All photos credit: George Graham)
So what is the difference between Cajun cooking and Creole cooking? For a Louisiana food writer covering Cajun and Creole cooking, that’s akin to asking, “what’s in a gumbo?” There is no clear answer, and that is the beauty of the culture and cuisine. At the risk of becoming embroiled in culinary controversy, let me shed some light on this long and sometimes heated debate.
The difference between the two is most easily explained by looking at the two cultures and their geography. Europeans of wealth and stature settled in the city of New Orleans and brought with them a palate for more gentrified cuisine reminiscent of their French, Spanish or English roots. Over time, servants and cooks of African descent learned these sophisticated recipes and techniques and blended them with their spicy, herb-infused cooking. Before long, tastes mingled into a soulful mix that became the defining taste of Creole. Cooking with tomatoes, cream, butter, cheeses and other more refined ingredients led to the rich cuisine for which New Orleans has become famous. French sauce techniques helped define dishes like shrimp remoulade, trout meunière, oysters Bienville, crabmeat ravigote and so many other great Creole dishes. And those classic European dishes were joined by down home Creole foods like gumbo z’herbes, smoky red beans and rice, dishes spiked with okra, as well as a tomato-infused version of jambalaya.
Meanwhile, in the marshes of southwest Louisiana a different sort of culinary evolution was taking place. In 1755, the expulsion of the French Acadians from Nova Scotia by the British resulted in the migration of thousands of families to the wetlands of southern Louisiana. All along the Gulf coast and northward into the prairie region of Acadiana, settlers put down roots. These were not people of wealth, but simple farming families. To survive, they trapped, fished and hunted for food, and applied their basic rural French culinary skills to simple Cajun recipes that fit their palate. Settlers along the coastal parishes made their livelihood by shrimping, crabbing, and harvesting oysters; further inland, farming the flatlands with sugarcane and rice as predominant crops led to Cajun recipes using all of these indigenous ingredients. The Atchafalaya Basin was a wild source for crawfish, and eventually the rice fields were flooded after the harvest for farming crawfish in a controlled aquaculture environment. Over time, the Germans settled into the region north of Lafayette and brought with them sausage-making and smokehouse skills that blended beautifully into the gumbo of flavors we now know as Cajun cooking.
Shrimp and Okra Gumbo is a recipe that links the cultures of Louisiana.
Family plays an important part in Cajun foodways. Even today, celebrations erupt whenever families come together to cook a whole hog. The boucherie and the cochon de lait are French traditions that are important to the Cajun way of life. Even crawfish boils are family celebrations that bring people together over food. Food is a key ingredient of the joie de vivre of living in South Louisiana.
I’ve heard Cajun food described as a basic and unrefined method of rustic, rural, farm cooking. I disagree. To me, that description shortchanges the talent and taste of the culinary art of the French Acadians. I believe the evolution of this distinctly original cuisine is based on artisan techniques handed down for generations and preserved as a cultural treasure. Pride and passion for Cajun cooking are as much defining elements of the people as the music, dance and language. Deep, dark gumbos, spicy tasso, rich crawfish étouffée and black-iron pot rice and gravy are original Cajun recipes steeped in historical reverence for a culture that endures.
But, the explanation doesn’t end there.
I contend that over time Cajun and Creole cuisines have converged into a unique, cross-cultural cuisine that is represented throughout Louisiana. The holy trinity of spices–onion, bell pepper, and celery–is the divine starting point of both cuisines. Okra appears often in gumbos on both sides of the Atchafalaya Basin, and a bowl of creamy red beans with smoked andouille is a link that deliciously bridges the two cultures. The beauty of eating in Louisiana is the blending of flavors into unexpected and surprisingly unique dishes.
Let the debate end. What’s the true Louisiana cuisine? Who cares? The blurring of the lines of distinction of these two cultures has resulted in a truly original, one-of-a-kind cuisine. To celebrate and illustrate this union, I offer up a steaming hot bowl of shrimp and okra gumbo.
One bite and you will clearly understand.
Freshly cut okra adds a Creole touch to this Cajun recipe for Shrimp and Okra Gumbo.
- ¼ cup canola oil
- 2 cups diced yellow onions
- 2 cups diced green bell pepper
- 2 cups diced celery
- 2 tablespoons minced garlic
- ½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
- 1 cup chopped tasso or smoked ham
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 12 cups shrimp stock or seafood stock, plus water if needed
- 1 cup dried shrimp
- 2 cups sliced okra
- 1 ½ cups dark roux, such as Rox's Roux
- 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 3 pounds fresh large Louisiana shrimp
- Dash of hot sauce
- 8 cups cooked Louisiana white rice, for serving, such as Supreme
- 1 cup diced green onion tops
- Filé powder
- In a large cast-iron pot over medium heat, add ¼ cup of canola oil. Once sizzling hot, add the onions, bell peppers, and celery. Sauté until the onions turn translucent. Add the garlic, parsley, and tasso, and sauté until combined. Add the tomato paste and stir to combine.
- Add the shrimp stock along with the dried shrimp. Add the sliced okra. Bring to a boil and add the roux. Lower the heat to a simmer and season with cayenne pepper. Cover the pot and let cook for 1 hour.
- After 1 hour, lift the lid and skim the surface of any excess oil. Taste the gumbo. If you prefer your gumbo thinner, add more stock or water. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add the shrimp, cover the pot and simmer for 20 minutes more. Turn off the heat.
- Uncover the pot and skim the surface of any excess oil. Sample the finished gumbo and season with hot sauce to taste.
- Ladle the gumbo into large bowls over a mound of rice and garnish with diced green onion tops. Have filé powder and hot sauce on the table for adding. Serve with hot French bread.
Blending a deep dark Cajun roux with Creole okra is the base for introducing fresh Gulf shrimp in this Shrimp and Okra Gumbo – a classic South Louisiana dish.
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Thanks, George.
WOW, love it!!!
That gumbo is so beautiful, George. I bet it tasted even better. Thanks for the recipe and cultural lesson.
The first mention of gumbo in the colony found in legal documents was discovered before the Acadians fled to Louisiana so gumbo/gombeau is definitely a creole dish, meaning it was made in the colony. The Acadians who came to the southwest part of the state mixed and mingled with the existing creole and native populations so Cajun Creole cuisine is an interesting and probably a very accurate word choice.
Hey Kella – Excellent comment, and the African roots of gumbo with the inclusion of okra is certainly a Creole influence. Thanks for contributing to the discussion.
COOKING THIS ONE ON OUR FAMILY TRIP WHEN WE GET TOGETHER IN SOUTH CAROLINA THIS SUMMER ! YUMMM
I thought andouille came with the German Coast settlers, not north of Lafayette, but on the river between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. They got here almost simultaneously with the first Acadians (John Law shipped them in between 1720 and 1730).
Hey Jo-
You are correct, and some of the best andouille in Louisiana can be found in the area around LaPlace (Wayne Jacob’s is a standout). Later, in 1880 just north of Lafayette, the Germans settled around Robert’s Cove and smokehouse culture spread throughout the prairie region of Acadiana (Best Stop in Scott and Kartchner’s in Krotz Springs are favorites of mine). Thanks for pointing out that great andouille can be found throughout South Louisiana.
There were and are German communities north of Lafayette in the Cajun Prairie area. Most notably, Roberts Cove and Lewisburg, LA. Not the Lewisburg in in St. Tammany near Mandeville but the one between Opelousas, and Church Point, LA. Roberts Cove even has a German fest each year.
Hey John-
You are correct in pointing out the German heritage of Acadiana, and their influence on our culinary traditions. Sausage-making in particular has left a lasting influence on the dishes we eat today. I did a story on Roberts Cove and the German fest, so please check it out here. All the best.
Andoullie was made by the French in Normady, but it was intestines stuffed into intestines and heavily smoked. The Acadians that were exiled from Nova Scotia by the British most likely brought their recipes here, but is made with pork meat and also heavily spiced and smoked. I make homemade andoullie and other sausages, too.
Hi! I just found your blog through Saveur and loved reading several of your posts. The history of dishes is a favorite of mine to read, and your writing is delightful.
I have a gumbo question for you. Last fall we were near Nawlins and at a church potluck, I overheard some ladies (who grew up “on the bayou”) talking about the delicious gumbo we were all eating. One mentioned, and the other agreed, that you had to “cook down” okra before adding it to a gumbo to keep it from being slimy. One might have mentioned cooking it for two hours, but I was too far down the table to join their conversation and ask more about it. When I make gumbo, I just throw in the raw okra like you did, and I’ve not really noticed whether it was slimy or not since (until then) I’d only had my own gumbo.
Have you ever heard of this? Any comments?
Hey Joy –
Okra contains a natural thickening agent called mucilage that creates the slime which is one of the key reasons why it appears in gumbo recipes. In this Cajun Creole gumbo, both roux and okra are used to thicken it, and the slime factor should be minimal with the amount (2 cups) used as well as the cooking time (over 1 hour). Also, stay away from the larger woody okra and use only the smaller ones. Thanks for a great question.
My 99 yr. father who is Cajun , would pan fry or sauté the fresh okra with a tablespoon of red wine vinegar to cut down the slime of the okra.
Roux was used to thicken the gumbo.
Lana-
Very interesting technique; I plan to give it a try. Thanks for sharing your father’s kitchen wisdom. All the best.
Great recipe. I will share with you the foundation of gumbo to add to the story. The name derives from a West African word for okra, suggesting that gumbo was originally made with okra. The use of filé (dried and ground sassafras leaves) was a contribution of the Choctaws and, possibly, other local tribes. Roux has its origin in French cuisine.
Jo-
Thanks for sharing the info on gumbo. Best, George
This is the best seafood gumbo I’ve ever eaten and certainly my favorite recipe. Thanks. Love your site.
Hey Tina – You just made my day, no, my month! It is so great to hear comments like yours. Best wishes and spicy dishes to you!
I’ve always heard that one should never add hot roux to hot broth – that one or the other must be cool or it will curdle. In this recipe, does the rule apply?
Also, I’ve made lots of meat gumbos but never seafood. I want to make this in the morning and serve in the evening of same day. Should I make up to the point of adding the shrimp, then heat and add the shrimp before serving OR can I make the entire recipe, let it cool, then reheat it all for dinner without ruining the Shrimp? I wouldn’t want to have tough shrimp. Have you had luck reheating this yourself? I’d appreciate your advice.
Thank you!
SuziCat, Honorary Coonass (married to a Cajun)
Hey SuziCat-
Good question and one that has multiple opinions depending on who you ask. As for your word “curdle”, it is more accurate to say “clump.” And yes, if you add stock too slowly or only a little at a time, the starch in the roux will cling to the liquid and clump. In my experience, when you combine a significant amount of stock or water (hot or cold) with roux, there is no problem. My usual method is to saute the aromatics (onion, celery, and bell pepper), add the stock in its entirety and bring to a simmer, and then add the roux to the hot pot. I’ve never had a problem. If you ever do see clumps, then whisk vigorously with a wire whisk until the clumps disappear. I hope this helps.
And to your shrimp question: I always add my shrimp in the last stage of cooking.
No. Adding your roux to hot stock is the correct culinary process
Can’t wait to try this recipe. I have frozen cut orka someone gave to me. Will that work?
Phyllis – Get yo gumbo on! Frozen okra works just fine. All the best.
I will cook this in two days. Need to round up the ingredients. I make dishes with shrimp and okra often. Paul Prudhomme got me started with cajun food many years ago. His first book is in tatters.
I was raised in Texas–Dallas and Austin. Retired 6 years ago to the mountains of Colorado. Gumbo is like a soup and I eat soup year round living at 8,500ft. On my bucket list is to visit New Orleans and enjoy the food. I do miss the fresh gulf shrimp and fresh okra. Have to use the frozen of these foods now.
I stumbled onto your recipe and stories today while googling. Glad I did.
Hey Mary- Chef Paul is a great food mentor to have; you are in good hands in following his recipes. IQF (individually quick frozen) shrimp is not a trade off in quality if you find good quality American products, preferably from Gulf waters. Read the labels carefully and stay away from foreign imports. As for visiting Louisiana, you most certainly need to visit New Orleans, but be sure to schedule a side trip to Acadiana. Between these two regions of South Louisiana, you will get an education in Cajun and Creole cuisine that is sure to change your culinary life forever. All the best.
Just returned from a road trip to Lake Charles, my home. Craving more gumbo and information about my heritage, I came across this delightful article to include the comments from readers!! Many of my relatives are using ready-made roux, but I had heard you can make a larger batch of roux and freeze the excess in twist icecube trays to use when needed. Your thoughts good sir?
Marget – As for roux, whenever my wife or I make a batch, you can be assured it will be a large batch. As for storing in ice cube trays, why bother? Roux should be stored in a Mason jar and refrigerated for up to three years. Rox has a long shelf life, and all you have to do is spoon out what you need and return the rest to the refrigerator. All the best.
I cannot wait to make this gumbo.. I am from north Louisiana and so am not familiar with Creole cooking but love the food. Can I buy seafood stock and if not, how do I make it?
Elaine – Yes, you can buy seafood stock in many supermarkets. I even found that using bottled clam juice is a quick and easy substitute. But there’s nothing better than slow-simmering a stockpot of water full of crab and shrimp shells along with some onions and carrots for an hour or so. Just strain it and freeze it for a seafood explosion of flavor in your next gumbo. All the best.
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This looks great! Your story is even better. It’s the Saturday after Thanksgiving and am tired of turkey leftovers, so we decided to make some gumbo. I found your recipe and am headed to buy the ingredients to cook and eat while watching football. I am also going to use Rox’s roux recipe and have my first attempt at making roux myself. Pretty excited to see how it comes out! Thanks for posting!
John
McComb MS
Hey John – Thanks for the compliment; let us know how your gumbo turns out. All the best to my friends in McComb!
Just need the recipe. It looks good. Thank you.
It’s still steamy summertime here in Louisiana, but I really wanted this gumbo! My gumbo is usually void of okra and just a big bowl of sausage, ham, turkey necks, shrimp and blue crabs. I’ve been longing for a real authentic Creole gumbo like you can find in any New Orleans restaurant. Thankfully I came across your recipe; it was the closet of all that I skimmed to what I had in mind, and it did not disappoint! I did not deter from your ingredients and instructions except for the roux. I did my own dry roux, and it was perfect without any oil to skim away. Thank you for this gem of a recipe. I will definitely make more in the future!
Hey Y- Thanks so much for the kind words; I am glad your gumbo turned out so good. All the best for many more great Creole (and Cajun) dishes to come.
where can i buy the dried shrimp?
Kim- I find them in many small neighborhood grocery stores (not the big chains) throughout Acadiana. But if you live outside of Cajun country, you will always find them in any Asian grocery. All the best.
George I would like to know the purpose of the dried shrimp. Is it to pump up flavor of the stock???
Nicki – Exactly. While they are delicious to eat in the gumbo, it is because of the release of shrimp flavor that perfumes the pot. Some hardcore country folks even like to eat them right out of the package like potato chips, but I stop short of that. Give it a try.
My husband is from Houma, Louisiana, but his folks were from Arkansas. He only got to enjoy Cajun foods locally, since his mother did not cook Cajun. I love your recipe and use your basic recipe to make shrimp okra gumbo and chicken sausage gumbo for him (and me). I also love your blog.
Hey Katie – Great to hear from you, and I am so glad you’re keeping your husband well-fed with great Cajun food. All the best.
Very interesting post. This is my first-time visit here. I found so much interesting stuff in your blog, especially its discussion. Thanks for the post!
Made it yesterday. Best ever. Closest to gumbo my mom used to make. Great website you have.
My Cajun uncle blessed me (New Hampshire resident) with a box of Zatarain’s gumbo mix, which I recently made with Andouille and shrimp and it reminded me of my time in New Orleans many years back. Me being me, I need to find recipes to make this totally on my own. So thankful that I stumbled across this site!
It is summer and we have some okra growing up here and I am waiting to harvest it and make a gumbo from scratch. Will definitely come back and let you know how it came out.
In the mean time, I will be consuming all I can on this site about Cajun and Creole cooking. Thank you so much for sharing your insight!
Gombo must have okra to be true gumbo.
By definition:
What Does Gumbo Taste Like? Gumbo is a rich, flavorful stew that combines the unique flavors and textures of okra (bittersweet with a slimy texture) and/or sassafras leaves (which taste like root beer) with a variety of meat options.
John- Your point is partially correct in that the word “gumbo” is African for “okra,” but that is where the explanation gets tricky. There are many different types of gumbo and while okra gumbo is quite common, especially in the New Orleans Creole tradition, it is not an essential ingredient to be called “gumbo.” In fact, in the Southwest Louisiana Acadiana region where I live, you are just as likely to find gumbo without okra.
In addition, the use of filé (sassafras leaves) is optional. While it was used to thicken gumbo in earlier times, it is now used mostly as a condiment spice and left up to individual preference.
To find out more, visit my Cajun/Creole Culinary Dictionary.
All the best.
If shy of stock or ingredients for stock, ground smoked crawfish in addition to dried shrimp will boost the flavor. Home made is best. In a pinch, a West African export is available at most African markets. I like a new roux. Takes about 30 -40 min. Trick is to cook hot at first until it’s golden. Then turn heat down until light brown. The last 20 min keep heat very low and watch for smoke. No matter the time or color, if it starts to smoking it’s ready to burn. So call it done and add the trinity. To give it an African twist, substitute red peppers for tomato.
Hey Katz – These are some bold and beautiful methods and ingredients that I’ve never heard of. I appreciate your creative and colorful approach to gumbo-making. I can only think how magical a bowl of your gumbo must be. All the best.
I am a homegrown, Louisiana girl, and I’ve had many shrimp and okra gumbos in my day. With this great freeze we are experiencing across the nation, I felt this was the best meal for the evening. This is by far the best recipe I have ever made or eaten!! Thank you, George and Rox and Acadiana Table!! Stay warm ❄️
Hey Rachel- Thanks for the delicious review of my Shrimp and Okra Gumbo recipe, and coming from a world-class Cajun cook from Welsh, Louisiana, that is high praise indeed. All the best to you and your family.
I grew up in central Louisiana in Avoyelles Parish. We had the French andouille which is intestines stuffed with intestines. You could boil them and serve with vinegar, salt, and black pepper or use it in gumbo. Most popular was chicken and sausage gumbo. This type of andouille adds lots of flavor to your gumbo. It’s hard to find, but some Cajun markets have it. This is an excellent recipe for shrimp and okra gumbo.
Thanks, Donald.