In Rox’s Roux, the dark abyss of a perfectly made Cajun roux is the foundation of Cajun cooking. (All photos credit: George Graham)
Making a dark Cajun roux from scratch is a dying art. Not too many years ago, there wasn’t a Cajun or Creole household in South Louisiana that didn’t have the unmistakably intense aroma of a dark roux, in all its glory, wafting through the kitchen. Home cooks were taught basic roux-making skills early on, and it was a rite of passage to pass it on to the next generation.
Times have changed.
With the proliferation of jarred and powdered roux products, as well as packaged gumbo mixes, the art of roux making is slowly dying off. Don’t get me wrong, some prepared roux products are very good, and I use them often. But, there is no substitute for a homemade roux, and I believe it is the obligation — no, responsibility — of roux makers to hand down this timeless artisan skill to their children. I know my wife has.
Rox can make a roux.
As deep and dark as blackstrap molasses and just as rich.
My wife Roxanne doesn’t cook every night nor does she profess to be a culinary artisan, but she is one of the best natural cooks I know. For Rox’s roux, she follows a strict set of guidelines handed down from generations of good Cajun cooks before her. She was born and raised in Jennings, and I sometimes tease her that her grandmother’s black iron pot and well-worn, wooden gumbo spoon were her dowry. Truth be told, to her they are significantly more valuable than anything money could buy.
4 Stages Of Rox’s Roux
On a cold January day, she can work magic in that pot with a roux-infused chicken and sausage gumbo like none other I’ve tasted. A roux is the foundation on which gumbo is based. Rox’s roux is nursed and nourished with a serious attention to detail that defies logic. It’s as if my wife goes into a semi-lucid state of consciousness that is mesmerizing. She stirs and stirs. And focuses on color, texture and smell. For over an hour, she stirs. No phone calls, no conversations, no distractions whatsoever.
White, cream, beige, tan, brown, mahogany, and beyond.
There is an instinctive point of departure — a point of no return that she pushes beyond. A less brave or sure-handed cook would stop short of perfection. She has the confidence and courage to pursue that hauntingly dark depth of a rich chocolate-colored roux. Hershey bar chocolate is the terminus, and anything more is burnt and destined for the disposal.
With her wooden spoon scepter in her right hand, my gumbo queen rules the kitchen.
Rox’s roux is chocolate syrupy thick and just as rich.
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George: Thank you for sharing Rox’s roux making and gumbo recipe with us. Hats off to her for that beautiful and masterful skill she has developed. I was wondering how to preserve the extra roux she makes for the next gumbo. Freeze it? I agree if you are going to spend an hour of your time, it should be for more than one pot of gumbo. I have made roux from scratch but have a problem with it separating. I believe it might be because I failed to let it cool first. I was not aware of prepared roux available commercially. Can you recommend a brand or type I might look for. No worries, I will still attempt to make it from scratch. Enjoy your blog so much. I now have the cookbooks you recommended and am really enjoying them. Last night I made “Crawfish Maria” from the Peter Sclafani Seasons of Louisiana book. I plan to feature it on my blog, (queenjeannescuisine.wordpress.com) this weekend. Check it out. Thanks again to you and Roxanne, Jeanne
Hey Jeanne- Thanks for the comments. Let the roux cool down to room temp and store in a mason jar in the freezer. Cajungrocer.com has several jarred roux products and my favorite is Savoie’s. I use the light for seafood gumbo and the dark for most all other types. Glad you have the cookbook, and my friend Chef Peter Sclafani will look forward to seeing your story.
George
Thanks, George. I will feature Chef Peters cookbook and the recipe either Saturday or Sunday coming up. The recipe was delicious, by the way.
……and what time will she be serving? Sounds delish, especially in this cold weather fix we are in!
I love this George!!! I have always made my own roux and here in Switzerland I must rely on all of my Cajun senses and skills. I don’t have a cast iron pot but I do have LeCreuset. Do you think this will work as well? Looking forward to any other tips you may have.
Good Job…. Fixing Lolli Pop Chicken today!!
How many total cups of roux does this recipe make? It looks delicious. My Dad was born and raised in Jennings like your wife, Rox! Hope to hear from you soon! <3
Hey Cherie – Great to hear from good folks from Jennings. The roux recipe makes 3 cups, but the gumbo should only need half that, or 1 1/2 cups. Always a good idea to make enough for the next gumbo. Stay warm.
Makes me homesick, but love your pages
Hey Sandra- Nothing says “home” to a Louisianan like the smell of roux wafting in the winter air like a warm blanket on a chilly night. It is what connects us with our heritage. Thanks for the comment. George