In Rox’s Roux, the dark abyss of a perfectly made Cajun roux is the foundation of Cajun cooking. (All photos credit: George Graham)
Making a dark Cajun roux from scratch is a dying art. Not too many years ago, there wasn’t a Cajun or Creole household in South Louisiana that didn’t have the unmistakably intense aroma of a dark roux, in all its glory, wafting through the kitchen. Home cooks were taught basic roux-making skills early on, and it was a rite of passage to pass it on to the next generation.
Times have changed.
With the proliferation of jarred and powdered roux products, as well as packaged gumbo mixes, the art of roux making is slowly dying off. Don’t get me wrong, some prepared roux products are very good, and we’ve even jarred Rox’s Roux which you can buy in our online store. But, there is no substitute for the cultural ritual of making a homemade roux, and I believe it is the obligation — no, responsibility — of roux makers to hand down this timeless artisan skill to their children. I know my wife has.
Rox can make a roux.
As deep and dark as blackstrap molasses and just as rich.
My wife Roxanne doesn’t cook every night nor does she profess to be a culinary artisan, but she is one of the best natural cooks I know. For Rox’s roux, she follows a strict set of guidelines handed down from generations of good Cajun cooks before her. She was born and raised in Jennings, and I sometimes tease her that her grandmother’s black iron pot and well-worn, wooden gumbo spoon were her dowry. Truth be told, to her they are significantly more valuable than anything money could buy.
4 Stages Of Rox’s Roux
On a cold January day, she can work magic in that pot with a roux-infused chicken and sausage gumbo like none other I’ve tasted. A roux is the foundation on which gumbo is based. Rox’s roux is nursed and nourished with a serious attention to detail that defies logic. It’s as if my wife goes into a semi-lucid state of consciousness that is mesmerizing. She stirs and stirs. And focuses on color, texture and smell. For over an hour, she stirs. No phone calls, no conversations, no distractions whatsoever.
White, cream, beige, tan, brown, mahogany, and beyond.
There is an instinctive point of departure — a point of no return that she pushes beyond. A less brave or sure-handed cook would stop short of perfection. She has the confidence and courage to pursue that hauntingly dark depth of a rich chocolate-colored roux. Hershey bar chocolate is the terminus, and anything more is burnt and destined for the disposal.
With her wooden spoon scepter in her right hand, my gumbo queen rules the kitchen.
Rox’s roux is chocolate syrupy thick and just as rich.
And to make it even easier, Rox has a short video on how to make a roux.
YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this Cajun cooking story and Cajun recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick and painless. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new Cajun cooking stories and Cajun recipes are added. Thanks, George.
George: Thank you for sharing Rox’s roux making and gumbo recipe with us. Hats off to her for that beautiful and masterful skill she has developed. I was wondering how to preserve the extra roux she makes for the next gumbo. Freeze it? I agree if you are going to spend an hour of your time, it should be for more than one pot of gumbo. I have made roux from scratch but have a problem with it separating. I believe it might be because I failed to let it cool first. I was not aware of prepared roux available commercially. Can you recommend a brand or type I might look for. No worries, I will still attempt to make it from scratch. Enjoy your blog so much. I now have the cookbooks you recommended and am really enjoying them. Last night I made “Crawfish Maria” from the Peter Sclafani Seasons of Louisiana book. I plan to feature it on my blog, (queenjeannescuisine.wordpress.com) this weekend. Check it out. Thanks again to you and Roxanne, Jeanne
Hey Jeanne- Thanks for the comments. Let the roux cool down to room temp and store in a mason jar in the freezer. Cajungrocer.com has several jarred roux products and my favorite is Savoie’s. I use the light for seafood gumbo and the dark for most all other types. Glad you have the cookbook, and my friend Chef Peter Sclafani will look forward to seeing your story.
George
Make it in oven. Oil, flour. Black iron pot. Bake at 350 degrees for 1 1/2 hours. Stir every 30 minutes. Longer if you want it darker. Make by big batches. I put mine in pints and freeze. Clean house or hoe the garden or paint the house. No stirring for extended amounts of time.
Hey Lois-
You are correct. There are a variety of ways to make a roux, and the oven method is quite common. But c’mon now, wouldn’t you rather be meditating while stirring a deep, dark roux rather than cleaning house. It’s therapy for the soul. All the best.
Thanks, George. I will feature Chef Peters cookbook and the recipe either Saturday or Sunday coming up. The recipe was delicious, by the way.
……and what time will she be serving? Sounds delish, especially in this cold weather fix we are in!
I love this George!!! I have always made my own roux and here in Switzerland I must rely on all of my Cajun senses and skills. I don’t have a cast iron pot but I do have LeCreuset. Do you think this will work as well? Looking forward to any other tips you may have.
Good Job…. Fixing Lolli Pop Chicken today!!
How many total cups of roux does this recipe make? It looks delicious. My Dad was born and raised in Jennings like your wife, Rox! Hope to hear from you soon! <3
Hey Cherie – Great to hear from good folks from Jennings. The roux recipe makes 3 cups, but the gumbo should only need half that, or 1 1/2 cups. Always a good idea to make enough for the next gumbo. Stay warm.
2 cups.
Makes me homesick, but love your pages
Hey Sandra- Nothing says “home” to a Louisianan like the smell of roux wafting in the winter air like a warm blanket on a chilly night. It is what connects us with our heritage. Thanks for the comment. George
Mr. George,
Been reading about roux that’s made in the oven, which requires checking every 15-20 minutes, as opposed to the constant stove-top stirring.
Have you or Rox experimented with that? Either way, what are your thoughts about it?
Regards,
Joe
Hey JoeW – Rox is old-school when it comes to roux-making, and she follows the method her grandmother used. Oven-baked roux is a restaurant invention that now has gained acceptance among home cooks. As long as you reach the dark depth of flavor of a stovetop roux, I’m all for it.
I made the roux exactly as you called out in your instructions and it came out perfect. Also made a wonderful gumbo. My question is: Can the roux be made with glutin-free flour?
Hey Phil – Yes, roux can be made with gluten-free flour. My good friend and fellow food blogger Alison Howard has a great video tutorial on a gluten-free roux. Just follow this link to her site at Savoring Presence. All the best to you.
I have 3 jars of rox’s roux. Do I use this full strength, like the whole jar? Or dilute it, to make gumbo and other stuff?
Emily-
Roux is used to thicken and add flavor to a recipe. It is to be added to a recipe in proportion to the amount of liquid (stock or water) that is used. A rule of thumb we use is to add 1 tablespoon of Rox’s Roux per 1 quart of liquid (stock or water). This rule can vary according to how thick (or thin) you want. Go to AcadianaTable.com and search “Roux” in the sidebar to the right of the page and it will bring up every recipe that includes roux. Have fun and experiment…there are no hard and fast rules in cooking. All the best.
la roux de Roxanne est la meilleur monde, merci pour ce gourmet culinaire
Hey Laurent…Merci beaucoup!
Thank you Roxanne for sharing this video! I’ve made dark-ish roux before, but this time I got over my fear of going too dark, and I gave this a go. Great results 🙂 I had this going on the stove while I cooked other stuff, so I stirred every 1 or 2 minutes with a whisk. I don’t think the video mentioned what temperature to set the stove? After I got the oil hot, I turned it right down to the ‘minimum’ setting (my stove top runs hot). I found towards the end, after it starts looking dark caramel, I did need to stir constantly. It went chocolate quickly after stage 3 and seemed to keep getting darker even after it was off the heat. I used an enameled Dutch oven. Love the flavour, but I learned that a little goes a long way when adding to gravies or stews! Too much can be overpowering and slightly burnt tasting (I still enjoyed the gravy though, lol). I also added a little to smothered turkey necks in the crock pot with onion soup mix and yum! That turned out great. I’m planning some chicken gumbo next.
I’m Canadian with Portuguese parents. I didn’t grow up with any Cajun cuisine influences, so I’m learning as I go along. Thank you a million times to Rox and George for a beautiful website. It’s obvious you share out of love, and I so appreciate your efforts. I’ve learned a lot from you, and I’ve eaten some AMAZING food because of your recipes! Cajun recipes have become one of my and my husband’s absolute favourite things to come out of my kitchen. I recently made your étouffée using shrimp and scallops and that was WOW.
Viva- On behalf of Rox, thank you for your kind words. I shared your comment with her, and she is most appreciative. Please keep learning about Cajun food and keep the comments coming. All the best.
What temperature do we cook at? Medium-low? Low?
Hey Sarah- Good question with a not-so-easy answer. Heat levels are key in making roux with constant adjustments along the way. I generally start off with medium-high heat, and as I go through the stages, I bring the heat down. By the time you are at the last stage, you should be at low heat. As with most things, you’ll get the hang of it as you do it. Just stir constantly and watch the flour as it changes color. All the best.
Do you ever use butter to make dark roux? I use butter frequently for light and medium rouxs (like béchamel), and I’m curious about the flavour for dark roux. I’m planning another batch. Or maybe a butter-oil mixture would be best because of the smoke point? Or leave butter out altogether when going that dark? Thank you!
Viva- Butter and flour cooked briefly is the French method of making a blonde roux that is the gateway to thickening many classic sauces like béchamel, velouté, or a cheesy Mornay. However, in Cajun cooking, roux is a completely different method and purpose. Many of our classic Cajun recipes call for the depth of flavor that only a dark roux can deliver. A neutral-flavored oil with a high smoke point is required due to the long cooking time. Stick with canola or vegetable oil. All the best.
I love the contrast of old and new. Her grandmother’s cast iron, but using a constant temp induction burner. I feel like y’all oversold the former and undersold the latter. Either way, I used an enameled Dutch oven and an infrared thermometer to keep it around 380ºF and it came out great. Perfect day for a gumbo in Lafayette.
I purchased Rox’s Roux and was very pleased with the outcome of my gumbo. My question is: Do I use the oil residual in the jar or do I discard the oil?
Hey Ronal- Keep the oil in the jar; it helps to seal the roux for extended usage. All the best.
Okay, I’m gonna blow your socks off here, but we make our roux without oil, in the microwave. Seriously. Many years ago Melanie and I went to a food festival sponsored by Exxon, where my father-in-law worked. There was a food nutritionist there who was making a dry roux in a pan on a burner, and we stopped to talk to her. She said she had been doing this a while and her family couldn’t tell the difference, so that is what she did.
So I asked her, could you do it in a microwave? She said she didn’t know, so I took that as a challenge. I got out the largest Pyrex measuring cup I had and put in 3 cups of flour and gave it a wail. Microwave the first pass for 3 minutes. Take the cup out, careful it gets HOT, stir the flour with a whisk or large tined fork, put back in the microwave for 1 minute.
Repeat the process of 1 minute in the microwave, and stir until you see the flour starting to turn brown. It’s very light at first, but it takes perhaps 10 cycles in the microwave. Slow your cycles down to 30 seconds and stir extra well repeating until the roux is the desired color. At first we were unsure of how dark you can get it, but over the years, we’ve learned it can get quite dark without burning.
Once it’s the color you want, pour the roux onto a flat baking sheet to cool. If you don’t, it will continue to cook and burn. Once cool, run the roux through a meshed strainer as there will be some clumps. Don’t succumb to the temptation of crushing up the clumps, they are very bitter. The dry roux stores very nicely in a container in the freezer.
The only thing different with it in making a gumbo is, we will get some stock hot in a pan and then add the dry roux to it, dissolving slowly. Once it’s a liquid, you are good to go. This makes a very nice non-oily gumbo. Take care, y’all!
Hey Chris – Nice tutorial. I love to experiment with new methods, so I plan to check this out. All the best.