If you ask me, a dark Cajun roux is the secret ingredient that is the single most important building block of Cajun cooking. So important, that for your convenience, we developed a jarred product we call Rox’s Roux–the deepest, darkest, and richest commercially available roux. This product will add consistency and quality to any Cajun roux-based recipe.
Roxanne Graham and her Rox’s Roux. (All photos credit: George Graham)
So, what’s all the fuss about a Cajun roux? To find out, we urge you to make a roux from scratch and discover the lost art of roux-making, a roots cooking technique essential to Cajun and Creole culture. My wife Roxanne will show you how in a step-by-step video that will give you every one of Rox’s roux-making secrets. Take a look by clicking below.
Making a dark Cajun roux from scratch is a dying art. Not too many years ago, there wasn’t a Cajun or Creole household in South Louisiana that didn’t have the unmistakably intense aroma of a dark roux, in all its glory, wafting through the kitchen. Home cooks were taught basic roux-making skills early on, and it was a rite of passage to pass it on to the next generation.
Times have changed.
With the proliferation of jarred and powdered roux products, as well as packaged gumbo mixes, the art of roux making is slowly dying off. Don’t get me wrong, some prepared roux products like Rox’s Roux are very good, and I use them myself. But, there is no substitute for the ritual of making a homemade roux from scratch, and I believe it is the obligation — no, responsibility — of roux makers to hand down this timeless artisan skill to their children. I know my wife has.
The dark abyss of a perfectly made Cajun roux is the depth of flavor in Rox’s Roux.
Rox can make a roux.
As deep and dark as blackstrap molasses and just as rich.
My wife Roxanne doesn’t cook every night nor does she profess to be a culinary artisan, but she is one of the best natural cooks I know. For her roux, she follows a strict set of guidelines handed down from generations of good Cajun cooks before her. She was born and raised in Jennings, Louisiana, and I sometimes tease her that her grandmother’s black iron pot and well-worn, wooden gumbo spoon were her dowry. Truth be told, to her they are significantly more valuable than anything money could buy.
On a cold January day, she can work magic in that pot with a roux-infused chicken and sausage gumbo like none other I’ve tasted. A roux is the foundation on which gumbo is based. Rox’s roux is nursed and nourished with a serious attention to detail that defies logic. It’s as if my wife goes into a semi-lucid state of consciousness that is mesmerizing. She stirs and stirs. And focuses on color, texture and smell. For over an hour, she stirs. No phone calls, no conversations, no distractions whatsoever.
White, cream, beige, tan, brown, mahogany, and beyond.
There is an instinctive point of departure — a point of no return that she pushes beyond. A less brave or sure-handed cook would stop short of perfection. She has the confidence and courage to pursue that hauntingly dark depth of a rich chocolate-colored roux. Hershey bar chocolate is the terminus, and anything more is burnt and destined for the disposal.
With her wooden spoon scepter in her right hand, my gumbo queen rules the kitchen.
- 3 cups all-purpose flour
- 3 cups oil, such as vegetable oil
- A Cajun roux starts out in a large cast iron pot over medium heat. With no distractions and approximately one hour of time at your disposal, begin by adding the flour and oil.
- With a long-handled wooden spoon, begin to stir. Constant stirring and moving the flour around the bottom of the pot is the key to browning the flour evenly to prevent burning. This early stage will go slowly as you begin to see the white flour take on a beige and then a tan color.
- Continue stirring slowly and evenly, scraping the bottom and the circular crevices of the pot to move the flour around in the hot oil.
- At about the half-hour mark, you will begin to see a brown color developing and smell the first hints of toasted flour. This is where the stirring becomes even more crucial.
- At this point, you begin to enter the quickly developing phase where the least bit of inattention could result in burnt flecks of flour appearing – a sure sign you’ve ruined the roux. Watch your heat and lower it if the roux is cooking too fast.
- Constant stirring to keep the flour from staying in one place too long prevents burning. You will begin to smell an even nuttier aroma as you see the color turn darker mahogany. Most stop here, but you will keep going until you achieve a deeper, darker chocolatey consistency and color.
- Forget time at this point since you are now cooking by instinct, sight and smell. The utmost attention is needed to your stirring, and when you see that Hershey chocolate darkness, you will know you have arrived.
- Turn off the heat, but continue stirring until it begins to cool down and quits cooking.
- Spoon the roux into a bowl and let cool.
My wife Rox, and her roux rocks, too. Buy it by clicking on this photo.
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Rox’s Roux Rocks!
I lived in Baton Rouge for a year and a half. Had a great job and only had to work 3 days per week. The other 4 days I learned how to cook Cajun style. The food in Louisiana is some of the best in the country. My wife says that Louisiana should put “We Cook” or something similar on the LA car tags. I agree.
It’s the holiday season and my wife has been asking me to make another gumbo. When I thought about it I realized that I haven’t made a gumbo in over 5 years. That is way too long to go between gumbos! The last time I made it I burned the roux twice. The third time I made a really good roux and a good gumbo. At least that’s what those who have eaten it have said. My gumbo skills got rusty and I had forgot how to make the roux.
I found Rox’s Roux recipe and followed it to the tee. It came out better than any other roux I’ve ever made. I ran into few problems while making the roux, but was able to overcome them. Perhaps I misinterpreted the oil and flour quantity. 3 cups of oil and 3 cups of flour. I dumped 3 cups of oil in the pan. I figured a cup is 8 Oz so I put 24 Oz of oil in the pan. I used a measuring cup for the flour and added 3 cups of flour. I cooked it on medium stirring it constantly until it turned dark chocolate brown.
The roux and the gumbo was the best I’ve ever made. At least that’s what the folks said and I un-humbly agree. It nearly filled a large 5 gallon stock pot. This was a chicken and sausage gumbo.
Rox’s Roux Rocks! Thank you George & Rox or sharing it!
Hey Lloyd – Rox and I both want to thank you for sharing your experience and successful outcome. All the best to you.
About to make my own now up here in Missouri. I too lived and worked in LA from Lake Charles to Lafayette for about 8 months and loved every minute of it. Thinking about using bacon grease instead of pure oil. Will post my results.
Hey Luke – Once you make that roux, be sure to teach others and spread the gospel of Cajun cooking. Lots of folks down here use bacon grease…hog lard, too. It works great for a meat-based gumbo, but I wouldn’t use that type of roux for a seafood gumbo. All the best.
I am so grateful for having found this page and all the good advice. I make Louisiana-style food, sometimes, for special occasions, when I’m having a lot of people over. The food is so rich and flavorful – it’s perfect for sharing with family and friends. Having said that, roux has always terrified me. I pull out the Paul Prudhomme cookbook and pray it goes well..never knowing how things are going to go when I add the stock. I’ve ruined more than one etouffee and gumbo with my failed roux. Not this time! I tossed 3 batches before finally getting it right. The last batch was used to make the seafood gumbo.. Best I ever made. Tripled the recipe and used all the roux. Thanks so much for all the advice and the photos. For me these were the best tips…..make it ahead, throw it out if it doesn’t seem right, and the photos that documented the color changes. You guys are my gumbo heroes now. I’ll always think of you with gratitude when I make roux now.
Katie- So glad to hear your roux-making success story. Sharing knowledge and gaining confidence in the kitchen is what this blog is all about, and I am glad you are part of our family. All the best, and Happy Roux Year to you!
George,
Great reading all of these comments. I am throwing myself a 50th b-day party. (That’s how you ensure what’s on the menu!) I will be making Seafood, Chicken and Andouille Gumbo. I am thinking of doing as much ahead of time as possible (the roux, the veggies, the stock, gently grilling the Andouille and bass) I am an avid soup maker and firmly adhere to the adage of “make it on Saturday, enjoy it on Sunday” rule of thumb. Based on your experience, would you advocate making the entire gumbo the day ahead, then simmering, adding seafood and re-adjusting the thickening the day of the event?
Thanks,
Tree
(I’ve lived in all 4 corners of this great land and enjoy all of its regional culinary offerings)
Hey Tree – I like your adventurous gumbo thinking, and your make-it-ahead is right on. There’s an old saying–the gumbo is always better the day after–and if that’s true, I urge you to make it ahead. That said, there are a few pointers:
1) Chicken breast meat becomes very stringy when it is deboned and left in a simmering pot for too long. For that reason, I mostly cook with thigh and leg pieces, and if I do add chicken breast, I leave it whole on the bone and then debone just before serving.
2) Seafood is always added at the point just before serving, and especially if you are adding “bass”, it is a flaky white fish that will crumble in no time at all; be gentle with it. Shrimp will always remain intact, but they tend to toughen quickly, so don’t overcook. If you can find cleaned whole crabs, add them early on and they will bring tons of flavor to the pot. Crabmeat, on the other hand, should only be introduced at serving.
3) The base of this gumbo will thicken in relation to two things: the quality of the stock and the amount of roux. I urge you to make your own chicken stock (get my recipe on the blog or in my cookbook) or seafood stock (a trick I use is adding dried shrimp for flavor). Traditionally, a “seafood” gumbo is lighter and less thick than a Chicken and sausage gumbo, and since you are combining the two, it’s your call.
Please let us know how it turns out.
All the best, and Happy Roux Year to you!
George,
I wanted to touch base and let you know I appreciated your comments. The gumbo was fantastic!! BTW, I could set my watch by your estimate on the time it would take to get the roux to mahogany color. 60 minutes of constant care and not one minute less.
Tree – Patience is a virtue when it comes to roux and gumbo. Glad it worked out. All the best.
Rox’s roux recipe is the way I learned to make it years ago and continue to. I try to pass it on when I can. Most people just won’t spend the time to make it right. Dark chocolate!!! Sometimes it takes longer than just 1 hour but it is always worth it.
Thanks for confirming I’m doing it correctly.
I love your website. I’m from Tennessee but love Cajun food. I have yet to make a roux that dark but plan to soon for your catfish courtbouillon. I have made roux with bacon grease before and I think it turns turns out great! I learned to make roux as a kid for making gravy for breakfast.
Thanks very much for this detailed step-by-step recipe. I’m Canadian so I haven’t tasted authentic Cajun cuisine, but I do love trying all types of recipes. This roux is incredible! I haven’t been brave enough yet to try making a black roux but the deep brown one is so delicious. I love it as a base for beef gravy, it’s wonderful over meatloaf with added onions and mushrooms. I don’t know if this is sacrilege but I also add it to debris gravy for a recipe I found for Roast Beef Po’ Boy with Debris Gravy – it transforms the flavour of the gravy to something unbelievably mouth-watering.
Thanks again for the detailed photos!
Hey Viva – I love your unbridled enthusiasm for our cuisine and your newfound affection for roux. And you are correct: roux is a versatile ingredient for all kinds of dishes besides gumbo. Keep experimenting and let us know some of the other creative ways you use this amazing ingredient. Viva la roux!
Thanks for the excellent, step-by-step instructions and the helpful & entertaining comments.
I made my first roux this weekend using a combination of rendered duck fat, butter and olive oil (call me indecisive!) after toasting my flour in the oven for about an hour. I got an amazing chocolate color.
My friends said it was the prettiest roux they’d ever seen. 🙂
Thank you!
Beckey – I am most impressed with your creativity; your roux recipe flies in the face of conventional wisdom about the craft, but is very refreshing. What a combination; I can’t wait to try it. What final dish did you make with this roux?
I subscribed to your site to revel in the great recipes. I’m just connecting to my Cajun roots after a 34 year search for my father and family. I’ve always loved good foods with good flavor, and typically make a flour and drippings roux for my gravies. I’ve never seen this sort of recipe for roux, and look forward to hauling out the cast iron and having at it. One question, does a true gumbo have okra in it? I want to try my hand at a true gumbo, and want to experience it the way it’s meant to taste. Thanks for your site, I’m excited to learn more about Cajun cooking so I can pass it on down to my adult children and grandchildren.
Sheryl – There’s much debate about the role okra plays in gumbo, but it started out as one of three ways to thicken the pot, filé and roux being the other two. Your question is difficult to answer since you ask about what goes into a “true” gumbo. There is no true answer to that questions since gumbo is only “true” to the cultural roots of the family that cooks it. What I mean is that in a Creole family in New Orleans, a classic Shrimp Gumbo might always include okra, but for a Cajun in Ville Platte, okra would never touch a true Chicken and Smoked Sausage gumbo. The heritage of gumbo is vast and intertwined with both the history and the terroir of Louisiana. That is the exciting part about our culinary culture, and the fun of exploring it. Pick up my cookbook Acadiana Table: Cajun and Creole Home Cooking from the Heart of Louisiana, and on page 11, I write extensively about the origins of Cajun and Creole and the foods that define both cultures. It’s a great tutorial on connecting with your roots.
I made my first Gumbo earlier today. I used Nellies in the plastic container. The entire container left nearly no room in my pot. I sauteed two precooked bags of crawdad tailmeat, and a bag of medium shrimps after I removed tails. I stirred in with 2 cans of chicken broth, a bag of okra, a can of rotel, and 2 boiled chicken breasts I peeled apart. It is bland. In retrospect, I believe that I should’ve started with a roux. I’m considering now building roux after the fact and adding since I’ve still got such a large amount. What’s your opinion? My Dad loved it after adding more gumbo-file+hot sauce. To me, the rice soaked up to much broth.
Hey Clint – I applaud you stepping out of your comfort zone to make a Cajun gumbo, but there are a few rules you need to follow closely. There’s a reason the saying “first you make a roux” is at the heart of making a true Cajun gumbo. A dark Cajun roux not only thickens the pot, but develops the rich depth of flavor that defines a rural roots gumbo. You do not need to saute crawfish tail meat or shrimp, since they will cook delicately in the pot. As for the chicken, I wouldn’t recommend “boiling” chicken ahead of time, since you’ve lost all the flavor in the water and rendered the meat as you say, “bland.” It is better to either brown the meat ahead or like most Cajuns, just add the bone-in chicken pieces (skin and all) to the pot and let them cook with the gumbo and soak up the flavor. You can then remove them and debone before serving if you like. And finally, I am not sure about your ingredient called “Nellies in the plastic container”, but it sounds like a pre-packaged shortcut. Truth be told, a Cajun gumbo is quite simple, if you follow my recipe. The only shortcut you might want to take is to purchase a jar of dark roux that can be found online, but even that is easy with just an investment of time. All the best to you for your next gumbo experiment.
Oh Clint, honey, after reading your comment, I just wanted to sit you down and feed you a bowl of real gumbo, then show you step by step how to make it properly. I’m a Louisiana transplant living in upstate New York, and nobody here likes Cajun cooking, or seafood for that matter, so I rarely get to cook for anybody!
Hey Bridget – Upstate and down-home: a Thibodeaux living in New York; I love it! And thanks for reaching out to Clint. Truth be told, a properly made gumbo is a simple and easy process, if you stick with the basics. Thanks for helping me teach the world!
I’m a transplant from Tennessee, been here in Lafayette 3 years now and don’t miss home much when the cooking is this amazing.
Hey Thomas – You are correct, there are many transplanted Tennessee folks that have put down roots in Cajun country just because of the food. In fact, my father-in-law is a Tennessee hillbilly preacher from near Cosby who pulled up stakes and made his home in Jeff Davis Parish here in Acadiana. In the 1950s, he married a Cajun girl from Jennings, LA and had a daughter named Rox, and now you know where Rox’s Roux comes from. All the best.
Thanks for easy to follow instructions!
I love cooking, and had never made a Cajun roux before. The recipe worked perfectly! Dark thick, chocolate brown! THANK YOU!
Hey Manuela-
Welcome to the world of Cajun cooking. All the best.
Thanks for the recipe! I am an amateur but very experimental chef and I found this article by chance. Youre a great writer and you helped my first real gumbo turn out a success! Thank you
Hey Frank-
Thanks for the very flattering comment. I am so happy that you have discovered the secret to a tasty Cajun gumbo, and I hope you will come back to the table often. All the best.
Thanks for sharing !
I’ve never taken a roux this far before and I won’t look back upon that dark (or not dark enough) era of my life again. This is the future! Thank you!
Hey Melissa – Wow…what a colorful comment. I will share your kind words with Rox so that she will know that you have joined us on the “dark side”…dark roux, that is. Thanks for the comment.
Dear George,
Thank you. You my Cajun friend are true to your Cajun roots and heritage. Like you, I was born and raised in Cajun country, about a half mile from The Best Stop. I am 29 years old and am deeply in love with my Cajun history and culture. The smell of onions, bell peppers, and celery cooking is heaven. Your writing is wonderful, straight from the heart. You are a real inspiration. Keep up the good work.
Fellow Cajun,
Christopher Downs
Christopher – Thanks so much for the kind words. Taking pride in your culinary culture is the first step in learning the deep roots of our amazing Cajun and Creole foodways. All the best to you and thanks for commenting.
Thank You George for this site.
Amazing recipes, can’t wait
to cook my way through them.
Thanks, Jon. Please leave comments on your cooking adventure; we look forward to hearing from you.
I’ve been making chocolate brown roux for a long time. Burned a few batches along the way too. (Turns out peanut oil is a much better choice than olive oil. Now I know!) I never even considered that I could make extra and save it. “Wow! I coulda had a dark roux!” Slappin myself on the forehead.
I feel a gumbo coming on.
Hey Kurt- Yes, dark roux is the secret to the depth of flavor in Cajun cooking. My wife always makes enough roux for at least two gumbos. All the best.
This sounds and looks just like my mom cooked 40 years ago. I can’t wait to try this recipe tomorrow.
Sharon-
For me, there’s nothing more inviting than the smell of roux cooking in a South Louisiana kitchen. Let us know how your roux turns out. All the best and sweet memories.
Okay- so after 2.5 hours, I have to ask: What should this taste like? Mine tastes like toast, dark enough that I would eat it, but my child would refuse.
Hey Andrea – Not exactly sure what you are asking, but please know that a dark Cajun roux is to be used as an addition to another recipe. Roux is a combination of oil and flour that, when cooked to a dark color and added to a liquid (water or stock), is used to flavor and thicken a gumbo or many other Cajun dishes. Once you’ve made your roux, be sure to find a recipe on my blog or in my cookbook to add it to. All the best, and I hope I shed some light on a dark roux.
Oh no! I wasn’t going to eat the roux as is-lol. I was just trying to give scale to the level of toastedness it seemed to have. It was at that edge where a kid might complain something was burnt, but I could tolerate and maybe it was just a tad beyond that. I did not taste scorched so I used it. . As a roux in my virgin gumbo experience the roux was lovely! Just what I was hoping for. Incidentally, my cast iron skillet has never looked so good. I just bought another cast iron pot and will make more roux to season it. Thanks so much. BTW- I made your chicken and sausage gumbo which was delicious! Afterwards, I found your recipe for a greens gumbo! That’ll be my next one. Thanks again! Love this blog!
Andrea- Thanks for explaining, and I am most proud of you for making your first roux. You have just discovered the essence of Cajun cooking and how to create the rich flavors the cuisine is known for. All the best.
I’ve always made just enough Roux for the gumbo I’m making but after reading your article, a batch seems the way to go. My question, what is the best way (ie adding the trinity) to pre-made Roux when making the Gumbo? Do I first cut my Roux with stock?
Where can I find your seafood stock recipe? Loved your article, Thanks much, Al
Hey Al –
It is actually quite simple: Just brown your trinity and add your stock and the amount of roux called for in the recipe. Once the stock comes to a simmer, the roux will slowly melt into the gumbo and thicken. Roux is very forgiving (this ain’t rocket science), and you can play around with the roux:stock ratio according to how thick you like your gumbo.
As for seafood stock, there isn’t a recipe, but a simple process of simmering fish bones, shrimp heads/shells, or crab shells (sometimes I throw dried shrimp in the pot) in water with some aromatics (onion and celery). It doesn’t take long; 45 minutes will render maximum seafood flavor. Strain everything and use immediately or freeze for future uses. It will make all the difference in your seafood gumbo. All the best.
Hi George,
I live in Minnesota and I’ve never made Roux or gumbo before. I’m trying your recipe and I’ve been cooking for an hour and maybe 15 minutes and I’m still at the second tan color pictured above and I’m using olive oil. Is it possible to cook it too slowly and is the olive oil going to ruin the roux?
Kind Regards,
Brooke
Hey Brooke-
I don’t recommend olive oil for two reasons:
1- It has a low smoke point and you risk burning the roux at high temperatures
2- Olive oil has a strong flavor that will change the flavor of roux when cooked in a gumbo.
For best results, I recommend you try it again and use equal parts vegetable oil (or peanut oil) and all-purpose flour.
All the best.
Can we purchase a copy of the Cajun Creole dictionary?
Hey Larry – There isn’t a physical printed book; it is just a section of our website. Maybe one day we will print one. Best to you.
This was amazing with game birds. I used 2 blue grouse and 3 chuckar breasts. I deboned them first and cut into strips to ensure shot free. I added the meat raw instead of browning first. Will definetly be doing this again. I really appreciate the instructions; always looking for new recipe ideas. Few Questions: I would like to try lard or bacon fat instead of veg oil; can you comment on lard / bacon fat versus veg oil? Flavors more intense easier to burn? Also browning meat versus simmering in roux and broth?
Thanks for the comments, Luke. As for browning, I subscribe to the theory that layering of flavor is best achieved by searing meats on hot cast iron. But, I will admit that dark roux, rich stock, and spices dominate the taste of gumbo, which means that you can eliminate that step if you like. As for using bacon grease or hog lard for making roux, it’s a variation that adds a depth of meaty flavor. I do it from time to time, but never in a seafood-based gumbo or dish. All the best.
Enjoyed all the roux and gumbo discussion here. Started making gumbo 27 years ago and it’s really been the last 10 years that I’ve mastered it. A few things that I’ve learned and would like to share; never been a fan of okra in my gumbo, especially seafood gumbo. Started using cleaned and stemmed turnip leaves and about a cup of diced turnip roots instead of okra – sounds crazy I know but it’s really good and folks that don’t even like turnips love this addition to my gumbo. You can use a half to full bag of frozen turnips greens w roots if fresh aren’t available. Start w half to see how you like it first.
An easy seafood stock can be made by saving all your shrimp shells and heads. Simmer these in 4 cups water w a few carrots; celery and onion till reduced by half – strain and you’ve got a fine seafood stock far superior to that found at the grocer.
If you use oysters in your seafood gumbo shuck them over a container so you capture all the oyster liquor – strain and add to the gumbo.
Lastly – if you make your own roux – take a day and make enough for several gumbos. Doing so allows you to concentrate only on making a good roux and earns you at least an hour headstart on making a gumbo. I have vac sealed it and kept it in the freezer for months. Recently I canned some in scalded jars and they seemed to seal fine. If anyone has had issues w that storage method I’d appreciate the feedback. I plan on giving some as gifts to my roux challenged friends.
Hey William – That’s the great thing about gumbo; there are som many variations. Some might scoff at turnips, but if you’ve ever tasted a well-made Creole Gumbo Z’herbes made of several types of greens, you’ll understand why it is a delicacy. You are right on with making a seafood stock, and the most flavorful thing you can add is oyster liquor. Making lots of roux is a smart move and storing roux is a cinch since it is shelf stable. All the best.
Thx for the reply and you’re right – Gumbo Z’Herbs was the inspiration for that twist. I do have a question – one that I’m sure you’ve been asked many times. I cook “by ear” and so I’ve never given much thought to a fool proof roux to stock ratio. I’ve read some suggestions that call for a 4-5oz per quart ratio using a really dark roux. What say you? I ask because many beginners ask me and to tell them “you’ll know when you’ve got it right” doesn’t really help them.
Good question, William. 2 heaping tablespoons per quart of liquid (water or stock) is my preference for a thick, rich gumbo. I suggest you start with that ration and if you prefer a thinner gumbo, add more liquid. As for Rox’s Roux, we recommend 1/2 jar for each gallon of liquid for a perfect dark Cajun gumbo. All the best.
I love Cajun food! His Roux recipe sounds delicious; can’t wait to try it.
Can the roux be too thin? Mine is on the stove now (I’m stirring while typing!) and it’s not very thick. I’m an hour into it and it’s just turning the color of peanut butter.
Hey Pam – Equal parts oil and flour stirred until dark will thicken when cooled. Be patient and take it slowly. Hope it turns out perfect for you.
Very good recipe. I’m from Baton Rouge, and that’s how I make mine also.
Thanks Angie. There’s many methods to make a roux, but this is the most traditional and straightforward way to control the process and arrive at a quality outcome. All it takes is time and patience, and a little elbow grease. All the best.
No better smell in the world than when the holy trinity hits hot roux! Also wow, I am impresssed by those photos! Cooking mastery.
Hey Kay Jay – Thanks for the flattering comments; you just made my day. All the best to you.