If you ask me, a dark Cajun roux is the secret ingredient that is the single most important building block of Cajun cooking. So important, that for your convenience, we developed a jarred product we call Rox’s Roux–the deepest, darkest, and richest commercially available roux. This product will add consistency and quality to any Cajun roux-based recipe.
Roxanne Graham and her Rox’s Roux. (All photos credit: George Graham)
So, what’s all the fuss about a Cajun roux? To find out, we urge you to make a roux from scratch and discover the lost art of roux-making, a roots cooking technique essential to Cajun and Creole culture. My wife Roxanne will show you how in a step-by-step video that will give you every one of Rox’s roux-making secrets. Take a look by clicking below.
Making a dark Cajun roux from scratch is a dying art. Not too many years ago, there wasn’t a Cajun or Creole household in South Louisiana that didn’t have the unmistakably intense aroma of a dark roux, in all its glory, wafting through the kitchen. Home cooks were taught basic roux-making skills early on, and it was a rite of passage to pass it on to the next generation.
Times have changed.
With the proliferation of jarred and powdered roux products, as well as packaged gumbo mixes, the art of roux making is slowly dying off. Don’t get me wrong, some prepared roux products like Rox’s Roux are very good, and I use them myself. But, there is no substitute for the ritual of making a homemade roux from scratch, and I believe it is the obligation — no, responsibility — of roux makers to hand down this timeless artisan skill to their children. I know my wife has.
The dark abyss of a perfectly made Cajun roux is the depth of flavor in Rox’s Roux.
Rox can make a roux.
As deep and dark as blackstrap molasses and just as rich.
My wife Roxanne doesn’t cook every night nor does she profess to be a culinary artisan, but she is one of the best natural cooks I know. For her roux, she follows a strict set of guidelines handed down from generations of good Cajun cooks before her. She was born and raised in Jennings, Louisiana, and I sometimes tease her that her grandmother’s black iron pot and well-worn, wooden gumbo spoon were her dowry. Truth be told, to her they are significantly more valuable than anything money could buy.
On a cold January day, she can work magic in that pot with a roux-infused chicken and sausage gumbo like none other I’ve tasted. A roux is the foundation on which gumbo is based. Rox’s roux is nursed and nourished with a serious attention to detail that defies logic. It’s as if my wife goes into a semi-lucid state of consciousness that is mesmerizing. She stirs and stirs. And focuses on color, texture and smell. For over an hour, she stirs. No phone calls, no conversations, no distractions whatsoever.
White, cream, beige, tan, brown, mahogany, and beyond.
There is an instinctive point of departure — a point of no return that she pushes beyond. A less brave or sure-handed cook would stop short of perfection. She has the confidence and courage to pursue that hauntingly dark depth of a rich chocolate-colored roux. Hershey bar chocolate is the terminus, and anything more is burnt and destined for the disposal.
With her wooden spoon scepter in her right hand, my gumbo queen rules the kitchen.
- 3 cups all-purpose flour
- 3 cups oil, such as vegetable oil
- A Cajun roux starts out in a large cast iron pot over medium heat. With no distractions and approximately one hour of time at your disposal, begin by adding the flour and oil.
- With a long-handled wooden spoon, begin to stir. Constant stirring and moving the flour around the bottom of the pot is the key to browning the flour evenly to prevent burning. This early stage will go slowly as you begin to see the white flour take on a beige and then a tan color.
- Continue stirring slowly and evenly, scraping the bottom and the circular crevices of the pot to move the flour around in the hot oil.
- At about the half-hour mark, you will begin to see a brown color developing and smell the first hints of toasted flour. This is where the stirring becomes even more crucial.
- At this point, you begin to enter the quickly developing phase where the least bit of inattention could result in burnt flecks of flour appearing – a sure sign you’ve ruined the roux. Watch your heat and lower it if the roux is cooking too fast.
- Constant stirring to keep the flour from staying in one place too long prevents burning. You will begin to smell an even nuttier aroma as you see the color turn darker mahogany. Most stop here, but you will keep going until you achieve a deeper, darker chocolatey consistency and color.
- Forget time at this point since you are now cooking by instinct, sight and smell. The utmost attention is needed to your stirring, and when you see that Hershey chocolate darkness, you will know you have arrived.
- Turn off the heat, but continue stirring until it begins to cool down and quits cooking.
- Spoon the roux into a bowl and let cool.
My wife Rox, and her roux rocks, too. Buy it by clicking on this photo.
YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE: If you like this Cajun cooking story and Cajun recipe then accept my personal invitation to subscribe by entering your email at the bottom or top right of this page. It’s quick, painless, and FREE. You will receive an email alert and be the first to see when new Cajun cooking stories and Cajun recipes are added. Thanks, George.
Best La. Recipe site I’ve found.
Awesome. I have a friend in LaRose and this is similar to the way he makes it. This is the BEST ever! Thanks for sharing.
Hey Shelley – Thanks for the great review. If everyone could learn how to make a roux and pass it on to the next generation, that is the key to preserving our Cajun and Creole culinary heritage. Share the knowledge! All the best.
This is exactly how my mother learned from her Cajun mother and grandmother and it’s how I make mine still today.
Hey Candy-
Passing down these skills and traditions is the key to preserving them for generations to come. All the best and thanks for the beautiful words.
Made roux with this recipe and shocked my long-time, gumbo queen (my mom) with the flavor it produced in my gumbo. It was well worthy of 3 beers on a rainy afternoon. Just be sure you have ventilation as your whole home will smell like the roux when you are done.
Hey Mojo – I’m proud of you, and I am sure your mom is, too. And the ventilation will attract your neighbors like a June bug to a street lamp; it is truly an intoxicating aroma. All the best.
my grandmother is too from Jennings. are u related to the Arceneaux’s?
Best explanation of making a roux!
Oh yes! Best directions for a good roux yet. Merci!!
My mama was from Lafayette, and your blog is the closest thing to having her here for guidance. Thanks for sharing, et joyeaux noel!
I was also born in Jennings and your taste buds seem to be very close to mine when it comes to good Cajun cooking. It brings back memories of my late grandmother who also lived in Jennings and was know as one of the best cooks in town. Thanks for sharing your recipes because some of the older relatives took a lot of the good stuff to glory and never shared or we were too young to know the value.
Ora – Thanks for the comment and I too believe that sharing our heritage is the only way to preserve it. All my best to you, George
I must confess, I make my roux in a microwave. The shame, I know, but it takes 8 minutes.
http://redoable.co.uk/rehab-with-cockney-cajun-seasoning/
Louis – No shame at all. There are many ways to make roux, and once it cooks down in a smoked duck and andouille gumbo – it’s all good! Thanks for the comment. George
George, you are SO right! There are many ways to make a roux. My wife starts off by darkening the flour in the oven. When it gets to the color she likes, she takes it out and adds oil to it, which takes it to another level of color. She does it this way because as you know, this eliminates the need to continually stand and stir the roux if it’s being made on top of the stove. Works PERFECTLY each and every time.
Hey Michael- Thanks for the tip on an oven roux. Another method using a microwave is one developed by legendary Acadiana cook Jean Durkee over twenty years ago. Once you learn to make it the traditional method like Rox’s Roux, have fun experimenting. Here’s the link to her recipe.
All the best.
George
Hi
Can I use bacon grease ?
I’m from Philadelphia … sorry !!!
Hey Karen – Technically, yes, you can make a roux with bacon grease, since it is oil. That said, bacon grease has a very strong flavor that will define your dish. Rox’s Roux calls for a neutral-flavored oil (like canola or vegetable) to allow the deep flavor of the dark roux become the foundation of flavor in the recipe. If you do use bacon grease, please let us know how the final dish comes out (I love it when adventurous cooks defy tradition and discover new flavors). All the best.
What a fabulous story! And what a great way to honor your wife. Makes me want to sit in the kitchen and get to know her. I tell “roux stories” all the time about the wonderful cooks who made up my mother’s family…each of the sisters had a distinctive roux and therefore a different gumbo! I love the way you keep these stories and foods alive in our culture.
Sherry-
Thanks for the kind comments. It is truly an honor to tell the stories of our rich culinary culture, and especially gratifying to receive comments like yours. Best, George
George-
Ms. Rox makes a BEAUTIFUL Roux! I’m a little less patient and I take one advance step… I put my flour on a sheet pan and cook it in the oven at 160 degrees for an hour, stirring it every 10-15 minutes. This ‘browns’ the flour and allows me to start at a tan color, and saves me 15-20 minutes on the stove top.
I must admit, I’ve burned a few pots of roux because I haven’t watched it and given it the love it deserves at times….
Hey Larry- Yes, I am familiar with making roux in the oven and it works beautifully if you watch it closely. I have a cautionary saying about roux-making: You will rue the day you don’t watch your roux. Best, George
Thanks good reciepe
George, quick question – does your wife use a cast iron dutch oven when making a batch of roux this size? Love your site, takes me home to my grandma teaching me in the kitchen – I’m from Galveston, TX but lots of family in west LA and lots of the cooking carries over.
Mae – Yes, Rox has a black iron pot that was handed down from her Mo Mo Eve. Rox always says: “If you’re going to take the time to make a roux, make enough for the next gumbo, too.” All the best to you, George
Also – what is your favorite mixed seasoning? I usually use Tony’s but was just curious.
Mae – Good question. If you could see my pantry it looks like the spice aisle of a South Louisiana supermarket … every spice blend ever made. Over the years, I’ve used them all, but these days I use my own blend with minimal salt. I find better seasoning results when I can control the amount of salt added separately from the Cajun spice. Look for “low salt” or “no salt” spice blends and give them a try. Look for a future post on Acadiana Table for my make-your-own recipe…coming soon. Best, George
Not a roux maker, but will try on the next pot of Gumbo.
Loved you recipe for roux. Will try it next time I make gumbo.
When I went to New Orleans, I remember wishing I knew someone there who was a true artisan. Someone who learned from their Grammy who learned from their Grandmother the art of making mouth watering dishes but especially a True Roux. Cannot wait to try my hand at your recipe!!! Thanks So Much!!!
Hey Diedra – Glad to hear from you and once you’ve mastered the recipe, be sure to pass on your roux-making skills. Best, George
I am happy to see you wrote this article. The art of the black roux is almost lost in the southeast. Not many people even know what you’re talking about when you speak of black roux, but I’m glad I found this article and glad you wrote it. Thank you.
Hey Steve-
You are so right. Passing on our culinary heritage is the only way we can keep it alive. Best, George
Thanks
This looks good.Will make this soon.
George, that looks like roux I grew up with. Now living in California and can’t wait to try it for my Mardi Gras gumbo. Thanks for sharing.
I’m a true Cajun from Gueydan and make my own roux. This recipe reminded me that I need to teach my daughter to cook her own roux and save the jarred stuff for emergencies!
Susan-
You just won the Acadiana Table award for “Mother of the Year.” Teaching your daughter to make a roux from scratch is honorable and the key to keeping our culinary culture alive. I have deep respect for you and your dedication. Thanks and all the best, George
I’m so glad to find this information on the net. I use to live in Louisiana and miss eating all the wonderful food. I have to purchase a cast iron pot and then make my roux.
Thank you for the info
Hi George. Great post. I received Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen cookbook as a gift many years ago. Despite having clear guidelines, including pictures, making dark roux seemed totally intimidating and I never tried it. Then I moved to Nashville, closer to the hegemony of New Orleans, where I had the great pleasure to work with a chef who, although a native Nashvillian, was completely enamored with all things NOLA, especially the food. This introduced me to such an amazing array of flavor that I had never experienced before. Of the many lessons I learned, the one that has served me best is how to make a dark roux. Having actually seen someone do it gave me the needed push to do it on my own and the rewards have been marvelous. I recommend anyone wanting to learn this to just try it according to your instructions. If it doesn’t turn out, throw it out and try again. It’s just flour and oil, not expensive seafood or meat. Happy Mardi Gras, y’all.
Hey Pete-
Yes, you are correct. Making a dark Cajun roux is actually one of the simplest culinary techniques of all. But it does require two essentials that most cooks these days are in short supply of: patience and focus. Dedicate 45 minutes to 1 hour of attentive focus and you will become a roux-making rock star and capable of making all the classic Cajun and Creole dishes. Best, George
My mother was born and raised in Lake Arthur, LA and made a perfect dark roux. I’m trying to remember if she used bacon grease or Crisco. I know she didn’t use cooking oil. I’m wanting to recreate her fricassee chicken. I can’t remember if she cut up her chicken and tossed in a paper bag with flour and salt and pepper before she browned her chicken or if she browned it without flour. I know she browned the chicken and then added flour to the grease and went on to make her roux. Once the roux was ready, she tossed in chopped onion that stopped the cooking process. After the onions were wilted she put the chicken back into the skillet and sort of coated the chicken with the roux before adding water. Then she brought it to a boil, lowered the heat to a simmer and let it cook until it was done.
She used a deep iron skillet. She also used the same deep skillet to make her gumbo.
I wish I had paid closer attention.
My mother was born in 1909 and died in 1983.
My question for you is does it make any difference if you use oil, Crisco, or bacon grease?
And do you know about fricassee chicken?
Hey Dottie-
Bacon grease, Crisco, or even hog lard is the perfect oil for making a roux. The key is using an oil with a high smoke point and these days that can even be canola or peanut oil as well. I use the paper bag with flour method to brown the meat for stews of all kinds, but you cannot do both that and add a roux — it’s one or the other in my book. As for a properly made fricassee, your method is absolutely correct, and check out my recipe for meatball fricassee. A good smothered chicken fricassee uses the same method and is one of the great Cajun dishes. All the best to you and thanks for sharing your memories.
George
I use about one-third bacon grease and two-thirds canola oil. This makes the best gumbo.
Great recipe for making roux
how much water do you add at the end of the roux process if you use 3 cups of oil and 3 cups of flour?
Peter-
3 cups of roux is a lot and should last you for several great Cajun recipes. Besides gumbo, there are many dishes that use roux as a thickener and to add depth of flavor. Depending on the recipe, the amount of water or stock will depend on how thick you want the final dish to be. Every recipe for gumbo or other Cajun dishes should tell you how much liquid to how much roux you should combine. As you experiment with different combinations, you will find what you like. Thanks for the comment.
will try this roux soon !!!
Greetings, George (my Dad’s and Brother’s name)!
Great website. Looking forward to receiving your updates.
Thanx & All the Best,
Perry
Hey Perry-
Every Monday morning at 8:30am Acadiana Table will get your juices flowing for a delicious start to a week of good eating. Enjoy and thanks for being part of the family. George
Hello George. My name is Bill Bratcher, I live in Eastwood,Ky. Every Summer from 1975 – 1980, I lived in Houma & Thibodeaux , close to Nichols St.University.( called Harvard on the Bayou ). I worked on Oil Rigs for Western Oceanic to earn college money while attending Northern Kentucky university, I graduated in 1981. The BEST FOOD I have ever eaten in down home Cajun & Creole. My question is can you make your wife’s dark Roux in a deep cast iron skillet. You just can’t find a cast iron pot anywhere. The stuff they call Gumbo here is TRASH, no restaurant I’ve been to can do it. I’ve tried them in louisville,Ky…..Cincinnati ,Oh…Indianapolis,In. No one here can make it. It taste nothing like I got in N.O. or Houma or Morgan City or Thibodeaux or Dulac, Grand Isle or Lafouche on I can go. Will a deep cast iron skillet Work ???
Bill-
Yes, a cast-iron skillet (the deeper the sides, the better) will work fine, but just be careful that it doesn’t splash during the stirring. And you are correct on the quality of the gumbo being directly related to the quality of the roux. Take your time and make a deep, dark Cajun roux and you have the foundation for the best gumbo ever. All the best to you and the rest of my Kentucky friends.
So once you’ve made roux, is it similar to jar roux when adding to water? As in around 1 heaping tablespoon of roux per quart of water? I always over do this part in search of a dark rich pot of gumbo. I was handed down my great grandmothers iron pot very similar to Rox’s. She was born and raised in Grand Coteau. I’ve made roux several times in it but always end up adding too much roux to the water.
Hey Jason – Yes, the ratio of roux to liquid (water or stock) is always a bit tricky. It is a mix of the two to arrive at a taste and texture that is to your personal preference. Rox and I like our chicken and sausage gumbo thicker than we do our seafood gumbo which is thinner and less dark. Another point is that when the gumbo cooks down it will reduce, so it will gradually become thicker. So, follow the recipe and add your roux, then after cooking for a while taste for flavor and consistency and add more liquid or more roux accordingly. It is more of an art than a science. Best wishes and spicy dishes to you!
Hi George. I just watched the episode of No Reservations showing the making of the backbone stew. And as I’m always in search of new inspiration, immediately went searching for a recipe – thus stumblin’ across your great description of both stew and roux making:). Had never heard of roux before, and sounds amazing that you can have such rich flavors come from oil and flour! I definitely will have to try that. The backbone recipe trends well with the whole ‘trout-to-tail’ philosophy that’s going on – also here in Denmark. Will be sure to ask for it as well next time visiting LA. Thanks again☺
Hey Anne- Great to hear from you all the way in Denmark. Flour and oil cooked to a deep dark consistency is the key to unlock the mysteries of Cajun and Creole cooking. Get the recipe here on Acadiana Table at Rox’s Roux. And get the cookbook that is now available in bookstores and on Amazon.com. Best wishes and spicy dishes to you.
Hi George-Thanks for posting this guide and make sure you tell your wife thank you also. I’ve never made a roux before and this helped tremendously. I was so worried about burning it that I must have had my heat too low for the majority of the time as it took me 2 hours to achieve a color close to your wife’s. The gumbo will have to wait for tomorrow as its late now; and my shoulder needs time to recover from the stirring.
If you’re interested here’s a photo I took of my roux once it was finished. http://imgur.com/fdSF1wb
Hey Corey – It always takes longer the first time you make a roux. Now that you have a sure hand and clear understanding of the process, it will be a breeze the next time. Let us know about all the great dishes you make with that roux. And promise me that you will share your new-found skill of roux-making with someone else. The only way to preserve our food culture is to pass down these time-honored traditions. Best wishes and spicy dishes to you.
My grandmother died almost three years ago. She was from New Orleans, and she was proud. When she’d visit home she would buy tons of andouille and other sausages and freeze them and pack them in her checked luggage. And after Katrina (which she and my great aunt, Frances, got out of – the last two of their siblings) Frances came to Ohio. I have never liked Frances’ gumbo as much as my grandma’s. Her roux is blonder. My grandmother made roux like Rox – a dark chocolate color that I know took a while in the kitchen. I made my first roux today. I sobbed as the color darkened. Thank you. Thank you for giving me this opportunity. I didn’t get a chance to get my grandmother’s recipe before she died, but every gumbo recipe I search for has to be that dark brown color I know so well for me to even look at it. Now that I know I can do this, I can only hope that I’m doing my grandma’s memory justice.
Krystina – I shared your heartfelt comments with Roxanne, and we were both moved by your words. Family memories of evenings around the kitchen table with the tastes and smells of times gone by endure forever. Recreating these time-honored dishes comfort us and they speak volumes about our heritage. If we work to preserve them, and share them with the next generation, we are all blessed. All the best to you.